Surfing

Why are dumping waves considered unpredictable?

The Unpredictability of Dumping Waves: A Lesson in Energy and Danger

Why are dumping waves considered unpredictable? Well dumping waves, they occur in a place that with ocean floor goes from Deep to shallow very quickly. So the quicker and steeper the gradient is from Deep to shallow the quicker, the wave will rear up and the more energy the wave will dump with. Because if for instance the opposite of that is a place that's very shallow, very far Far out to sea. So I learned to surf at the speech called muizenberg. It's shallow super far out to sea and the waves break a kilometer out, but there are small and they very soft. And they move very slowly that the energy is lost as it from way out to sea, because the energy, the, as a wave, travels, its oscillating energy, and the bottom of that drags and loses energy, as it feels the bottom. So if you have, if it's very shallow far to see It'll lose, Is energy very quickly whereas if you have a, The Dumping waves, it goes from deep water to shallow, the wave comes in out of deep water. It maintains all of its energy and suddenly the the oscillating system feels the bottom and it rears up very quickly with all that energy and unloads on to the sand bank or the reef and because it's moving so quickly and Rears up so fast, it makes it a lot more unpredictable and dangerous.

Dumping waves are unpredictable because they occur in places with an ocean floor that quickly goes from deep to shallow which allows the wave to maintain its energy and quickly rear up, making it more dangerous.

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Dumping waves are considered unpredictable because they occur in areas where the ocean floor transitions rapidly from deep to shallow. The steeper and quicker this gradient is, the faster the wave will rise and the more energy it will release. In contrast, waves in areas that are shallow and far out to sea tend to be smaller, softer, and slower-moving. The energy of these waves dissipates as they travel over the shallow bottom, resulting in a loss of power. 

However, in the case of dumping waves, the wave maintains its energy as it approaches the shallow area. When it encounters the bottom, it rapidly rears up and releases all of its energy onto the sandbank or reef. This quick and powerful motion makes dumping waves more unpredictable and dangerous. The speed and intensity of the wave's rise make it challenging to anticipate its behavior, posing risks for surfers and other individuals in the water.

What does a week of training look like for you?

Big Wave Surfer's Intense Training: Swimming, Gym, and Surfing

So when I'm training hard for big storms and for big season ahead, I will try swim three times a week and I will gym two to three times a week and I'll try also include on top of that three to four surf sessions. So the swimming for me because I'm in the big wave surfing it's the most relevant, it's the closest I can get to mimicking the big wave environment. So I do a lot of underwater training which involves getting my heart rate up, getting my heart racing, doing a few deep breaths and then swimming under the water for pretty much as long as I can. That mimics being held under by a big wave with the adrenaline. And then with regards to the gym work, I do a lot of high-intensity training, a lot of stuff using a bozu ball or pilates ball. So for instance if I'm going to do push-ups I'll either do my push-ups with my hands on the bozu ball or I'll put my ankles on the pilates ball. So I try at with every exercise I do I try to add instability and then obviously surfing at least three to four times a week just to keep me sharp and eating a lot of food in between to keep up with all the calories.

To train for big waves, I swim three times a week, jump two to three times a week, and surf three to four times a week. In addition, I do high intensity training using a bosu ball and pilate ball to add instability. Lastly, I make sure to eat a lot of food to keep up with my caloric needs.

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During a week of intense training for big storms and the upcoming season, my schedule typically includes swimming three times a week, hitting the gym two to three times a week, and having three to four surf sessions. Swimming plays a crucial role for me as a big wave surfer since it closely mimics the conditions I face. Underwater training is a key component, which involves getting my heart rate up and practicing holding my breath while swimming underwater for as long as possible. This helps simulate the experience of being held under by a big wave and keeps my adrenaline in check. In terms of gym workouts, I focus on high-intensity training using equipment like bozu balls or pilates balls. For example, if I'm doing push-ups, I add instability by placing my hands on the bozu ball or resting my ankles on the pilates ball. The goal is to challenge my stability with every exercise. Of course, I also make sure to surf at least three to four times a week to stay sharp. And let's not forget the importance of fueling up with plenty of food to keep up with all the calories burned during training.

When you do your best and still get snubbed, how do you bounce back and get back on the course?

Failing Forward: Harnessing Setbacks for Resilience and Growth

This is a tough one. I think for me what helped a lot when I was young, I had so many failures, I used to lose two people all the time. Who much worse Surfers at me? Because my strategy was off. All I got nervous and competition, I would often surf conservatively to not fail and set of Surfing to win, which is something I really regret. But I learned how to lose from a young age which was very hot. Awful. I think it deepened, my resilience a deep in my roots of grit and I think not having everything handed to me on a platter, early losing a lot and dealing with a lot of hardships early help me to be a lot stronger now. And I think this phrase at my friend, Matt macgillivray told me once fail forward. It's a had a huge influence on my life and I make sure they weren't. I have a setback so often. I think I'm paddling into the way of my life and I fall. Will I miss it, I get too scared. Maybe I don't go in the wave. I tried to fail forward so I try to use the experience of failure as a growth experience. So I make sure I analyzed the situation. I process it and then I use it to fuel me to move forward towards my goal. So having an attitude of failing forward, I think is huge.

Having a "fail forward" attitude has been key in helping me to be resilient and grow from my failures. I process each failure, analyze it and use it to fuel me to move forward towards my goal.

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When you give your best effort and still face rejection, it can be challenging to bounce back and stay on track. Personally, I've experienced numerous failures and setbacks throughout my life, especially in my early years as a surfer. I would often lose to surfers who were not as skilled as me because I played it safe and surfed conservatively out of fear of failure. Looking back, I regret not taking more risks and surfing to win.

However, these failures taught me valuable lessons and built resilience and grit within me. Facing hardships and not having everything handed to me on a platter early on made me stronger. A friend once shared a phrase with me that had a profound impact on my life: fail forward. This mindset has become a guiding principle for me.

When setbacks occur, I try to fail forward by using the experience of failure as an opportunity for growth. I analyze the situation, process it, and use it as fuel to propel me towards my goals. Instead of dwelling on the setback, I focus on learning from it and using that knowledge to move forward.

Having an attitude of failing forward has been instrumental in my journey. It helps me embrace failure as a stepping stone towards success and keeps me motivated to keep paddling into the waves of life, even if I fall or miss a few along the way.

Thicker or Thinner? The Key to Choosing the Right Surfboard.

Is a thicker surfboard better, so this totally depends on what you're looking to get out of your surfing. For instance, if you're learning, you're going to be on a much thicker surfboard. So, the thicker, the board, the more volume the board has the more floated has and the more stable it will be and the easier it is to paddle so big boards. Thicker boards are used when you're learning to surf, because they are much more stable their paddle fast, The so it's easier to catch the waves when you want to get more advanced and you're surfing, you want to make the board lot thinner, because the thinner, the board, the less volume it has, the more maneuverability you have on the wave. So, like myself being a professional Surfer. When I'm surfing in smaller ways, I'm using a board that is just over 2 inches thick, so it's pretty thin, but then going into bigger waves, we use a board. That's actually very thick because the extra volume helps with paddles. Power. And when the waves are huge are moving really fast through the water and you need the extra Pedal Power and the volume to be able to catch the waves. So, in short, when you learn to serve using a thicker board, it's adds a lot more stability makes things easier. And as you progress, you should go thinner and thinner depending on your weight and the volume that is appropriate for the waves, you surfing, and for how heavy you are.

It depends on what you're looking to get out of your surfing. For learning, a thicker surfboard is better because it is more stable and easier to paddle. As you become more advanced, you should go thinner for more maneuverability and depending on your weight and the size of the waves.

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Whether a thicker surfboard is better depends on your surfing goals and skill level. Thicker surfboards are ideal for beginners as they provide more volume, stability, and easier paddling. They are easier to catch waves with and are suitable for learning purposes.

On the other hand, if you want to advance in your surfing and prioritize maneuverability on the wave, a thinner surfboard is preferred. Thinner boards have less volume, allowing for greater maneuverability and control.

Professional surfers often use thinner boards for smaller waves, as it provides more control. However, for bigger waves that require more power and paddle strength, thicker boards with extra volume are used.

In summary, thicker boards are beneficial for stability and ease of learning, while thinner boards offer increased maneuverability. As you progress in your surfing journey, you may opt for thinner boards based on your weight, the appropriate volume for the waves you surf, and your skill level.

Unveiling NEOS: Surfers Paradise in Indonesia

My favorite surf spot is a way of called NEOS in Indonesia. I mean wearing that up with jaws, but Jaws is terrifying and its jaws in Hawaii's where I've had my best moments that's like the best big wave in the world but I think the way of I'm enjoy, the most is NEOS in Northern Sumatra Indonesia. And it's a beautiful big, right? And Barrel, it breaks in a bay, that's surrounded by palm trees the water's. So warm the locals are are all super friendly and where every time I'm out there on a big swell, I just feel so comfortable. So it home, I know the lineup. So I know exactly like there's a palm tree and a telephone pole that I know exactly to line up with the pinpoint my exact position and I just feel like, I know that's what really well. And I've had some of the best writers in my life up there.

My favorite surf spot is NEOS in Northern Sumatra, Indonesia. It has a beautiful big right and barrel, surrounded by palm trees and the warm water makes it comfortable. I know the lineup well and have had some of the best rides of my life there.

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My favorite surf spot is a wave called NEOS in Northern Sumatra, Indonesia. While places like Jaws in Hawaii offer incredible big waves, they can also be quite terrifying. NEOS, on the other hand, is where I've had some of my best moments. It's a beautiful, big, right-hand barrel that breaks in a bay surrounded by palm trees. The water is warm, and the locals are incredibly friendly. Every time I surf there during a big swell, I feel at home and comfortable. I know the lineup well, and I can easily pinpoint my position based on a palm tree and a telephone pole. It's a spot where I've experienced some of the best rides of my life.

How do you teach an athlete how to visualize?

Unleashing Your Inner Hero: The Power of Visualization in Athletics

I use a lot of visualization. It's one of the ways that I faced my fear and manage to stay motivated. Stay excited. Stay focused in while I'm going into a big storm and yeah, so for me, visualizing the hero moment that's me. I would visualize myself sitting at the back line and seeing a huge wave come in. And I visualize every detail from I'm the water temperature to the wind to what I see all around me and at the feelings, I have even the feel of the Butterflies, I get in my stomach and I visualized this whole experience from sitting at the back to paddling into the wave of my life, writing it with confidence and executing it successfully. And told that feeling that I get when I pull off the wave. And I'm just so full of Satisfaction any motion, I visualize every detail over and over and over again. And this is like all visualizing my hero moment and I would encourage I often encourage people that I work with, it's a really great way to stay focused on the goal to Take away all the mist and all the distractions, focus on the goal, get motivated and get excited to catch that big wave that we looking for.

I use visualization to stay motivated, focused and excited. This includes visualizing every detail of a hero moment such as the water temperature, wind, feeling of butterflies in my stomach, paddling into the wave and executing it successfully. It's a great way to stay focused on the goal and take away all the distractions.

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To teach an athlete how to visualize, I rely heavily on visualization techniques. It's a method I personally use to confront fear, stay motivated, excited, and focused, especially when facing challenging situations like going into a big storm.

For me, visualizing the hero moment is key. I imagine myself sitting at the back line, observing a massive wave approaching. I visualize every detail, from the water temperature and wind to the surroundings. I even imagine the butterflies in my stomach. I go through the entire experience in my mind, from sitting at the back to confidently paddling into the wave of my life, successfully riding it with skill and precision. I immerse myself in the feeling of satisfaction and fulfillment that comes from conquering the wave.

I repeat this visualization process over and over again, focusing on every detail. It helps me stay focused on my goal, eliminate distractions, and maintain motivation and excitement to chase after that big wave.

I often encourage the athletes I work with to embrace visualization as a powerful tool. It allows them to stay focused on their goals, remove distractions, and generate the motivation and excitement needed to achieve their objectives.

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Surfing History

Matt started surfing when he was 6 years old, in Cape Town, South Africa. He grew to become one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. He watches the globe for large storms, and when all the elements come together, books a ticket and chases the energy across the world. He documents the big waves these storms create and produces high-quality content that is distributed through various global media platforms. Matt's other passion is sharing his experiences to inspire and empower people to ride their "big waves".

Matt Bromley