Matt started surfing when he was 6 years old, in Cape Town, South Africa. He grew to become one of the best big wave surfers in the world. He watches the globe for large storms, and when all the elements come together, book's a ticket and chases the energy across the world. He documents the big waves these storms create and produces high quality content which is distributed through various global media platforms.Matt's other passion is sharing his experiences to inspire and empower people to ride their "big waves".
To help with pop-ups, do push-ups and glute exercises to create enough clearance between the board and chest. Also, make sure to get a proper warm-up before paddle out to generate a light sweat. Transcript: "Hey so I would recommend the pop-up is most the time people they struggle to get that create enough clearance between the board and their chest for their front leg to come through underneath so for that I would recommend doing push-ups you have enough power in your arms and shoulders to get that pop to create enough distance between your chest and the surfboard that's going to give you that enough space for your front leg to come underneath I'd also recommend working a lot of glutes exercises so I do a lot of stuff focused in on my glutes with with the elastic bands so I put them like around my knees and I do outward motions with my knees work on on the outside of the glutes because that creates a lot of stability and then so that's kind of I guess pre that's like preparation training stuff and then before going into the water make sure you do a proper proper warm-up I mean one of the professional coaches on the world tour that I spoke to he said you want to even generate a light sweat before you paddle out so if your body's warmed up you got your pop-ups in the water going to be so much better so make sure you do a proper proper warm-up where you almost at that point we building a light sweat before you get into the water hope that helps"
My days are filled with training, surfing, sorting out equipment, doing visualization, networking, emails, coverage updates, proposals, networking with photographers and video people, and public speaking. Transcript: "Hey, this is a good question. I my days will fool. My dad. Always taught me. He's a lawyer and he was told me whatever I do. I'm going to spend hours doing it. So yeah. Everything from training to surfing to sorting out equipment doing visualization and networking emails coverage updates for sponsors working. A new project doing proposals to sponsors to get like movies or ideas off the ground, networking with photographers and video people around the world. The thing is in in my career there's a lot of downtime but when a big swole pops up, a big storm is going somewhere, everything has to be in place and really go because it's so last minute, I'm booking a ticket pack my bags, flying over, and surfing almost the next day. So, A lot of the work is done to make sure everything is sorted way in advance, and yeah, that's what my day is. Look like I've also recent more recently been doing like professionally public speaking. So I've got a keynote and I've been delivering it all over the world. So that's also been a really exciting thing to fill up my time during the day. You."
It was one of the best days of my life. I went out in the morning and paddled into a huge wave, snapped my leash, and lost my board. But I managed to borrow another board and paddle back out. I had some amazing rides, and it changed my life. My dad was relieved when I got back safe, and it was such a special day. Transcript: "I watch a light man photocom I watch a light move across the screen I watch a light come over me Here we are now going to the Westside So this was Jaws, one of the best days of my life. I went out in the morning and paddled into the biggest ride of my life, close to a 50 footer. It was such an incredible experience but I ended up snapping my leash on the wave, my board got lost up the rocks. I came in after a really heavy beat down and I remember looking back out and thinking, I don't think I'm going to go back out there, it was just getting bigger and bigger. The set waves were probably close to 25 meters high, like 70 foot plus, it was huge. All the best big wave surfers from around the world were out there, nobody was getting close to paddling into the big set waves, they were huge. And yeah, I ended up kind of getting revved up and I really believed I was there for a purpose that particular day. I borrowed a board, I paddled back out and I had another four rides that changed my life. Those two, that one wave in the video, that was one of the best waves I've ever had in my life. It was just a super special day, the waves were huge and wild but I just felt this deep sense of peace. I felt so confident and I felt like that was exactly where I was supposed to be. I didn't really feel scared that day, which is very unique for me. I normally get very scared and everything just felt right. I remember I got back to shore, my dad had been back in Cape Town, so terrified for me. And when he just found out I was in one piece, he just burst into tears and started crying because he was so relieved I was still alive. It was such a day."
I love Nias in Indonesia because of the perfect wave, the community and the beautiful scenery. Every time I see a swell heading to Indonesia, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave offers a steep drop with a massive barrel followed by a safe zone. It's one of my favorite places and 2018 was especially memorable during the biggest swell that ever hit Indonesia. Transcript: "My favorite wave is nias in Indonesia. The reason I love it so much. Is I love the community, they're the people, but it's also just the most perfect wave. I go there. Every year, every time I see a big swollen, the charts heading to Indonesia. I look straight at in the ass and if it looks good, I booked a ticket and I follow it. It just delivers up. It breaks in exactly the same place every time. And once, you know, your lineups, you can pinpoint exactly where to sit and every time take off from the same. Place super steep drop but once you make it you pull up, you just stand tall on us. Massive barrel for like 5 seconds and then spits you out into the channel into the safe Zone and then you can pedal back with your hair dry straight to the next one, you surrounded by palm trees. It's a northern Sumatra, it's so beautiful and warm and it's a very special place to me. This was in 2018 during the biggest wall that ever hit. Indonesia and was one of the rides of my life."
The most challenging aspect of big-wave surfing is paddling. You have to pinpoint the perfect spot on the reef and when a set comes, you have to pluck up the courage and confidence to paddle in and lean forward over the edge to drop in vertically to the huge wave. Transcript: "The most challenging aspect of big-wave Surfing paddling. Surfing is definitely the fact that you don't have a jet ski to get you to the waves to get you out of danger. When you see a huge set coming, the best big wave Surfers are not necessarily the best Surfers, but it's the ones who have the most ocean knowledge. So, if you're too far sitting on a reef for you, too far out to sea, You Can't Catch the Wave. You're going to miss it the way it was. It's too flat. If you tow to close in the wave is too Steep and too critical. So as a paddling, big wave surfer, you have to pinpoint the perfect spot on the reef. So what we do is we make lineups with with the beach and with sideways and front on to pinpoint exactly the part of the reef that we want to sit on and win a set comes. It's one of the scariest things. You gotta see the Horizon, go dark and your urges to just shoot for the her. Rison paddles fired as possible, but it's you probably won't catch the wave in. So you got to hold your ground and you wait for the way when you see a towering over you and then you got to pluck up the courage and the confidence to paddle in. And that's one of the things are paddling, surfing. When it's critical and it's steep underneath, you have her Lean Forward over the edge and drop in vertically to this huge wave and you have to have pure confidence and no hesitation at all in order to make it"
Yes, I am training for the Jaws big wave Invitational which is a competition for the top 20 big wave surfers in the world. I have been doing a lot of swimming and sprints in the pool to prepare my body and mind for the adrenaline rush of being held underwater by a large wave. I am now tapering down my training as I am about to book my ticket and fly over for the event. Transcript: "Am I training for anything in particular? Yes, I have just been invited to the Jaws big wave Invitational so it's the top 20, for big wave Surfers in the world and its northern hemisphere winter. Now it's prime time for big waves and Hawaii. Jaws is the ultimate big wave and surfing especially for paddling surfing which is what I love to do. So I've been training. Super hard, doing a lot of laps in the pool, Sprints in the pool game, my heart race. Icing and then swimming underwater for as long as I can mimic being held under by with my my heart racing. So to mimic that adrenaline being held under by a big wave, doing that over and over again with breathing and between. So yeah, I'd be, I was training super hard like in the last six months and I've started to taper down a little because any moment now is going to be a big saw headed to jaws, and I'm going to book my ticket fly over and be a part of the Test really, really excited. Feeling, good and strong, you"