Surfing

If the long border is deeper and up and riding before the short border drops in, then it is their wave.
 
Transcript: "So, this question involves a hypothetical scenario where there's a long border, who is deeper and a short border who is inside closer to the peak, the long border catches, the wave, and is up five seconds before the short border drops in. Behind the question is, whose wave is it? This is a bit of a gray area. However, in my opinion, if the long border is both deeper and up and riding and doing committed Maneuvers before the short border drops in, then it is undoubtedly the longboarders wave"

Yes, you can surf when it's raining. Just be sure to watch out for lightning and stay safe.
 
Transcript: "Can i surf when it's raining? Yes, you can surf. When it's raining, you're already wet. So it doesn't matter. The one thing you need to look out for as Lightning though, you don't want to be surfing in a lightning storm, but just regular rain. I love surfing in the rain. It does seem like a lot of places that the waves actually kind of slow down when it rains, but not all the time. But being out in the ocean surfing when it's raining, is actually a great feeling, I love it. Like I said, you're already wet, so it doesn't even matter. And it usually does cut down the crowds for some reason, people don't surf when it's raining. But yeah, I mean, a lot of people do too but it's just. Yeah, I think surfing in the rain is a great thing and yeah, just watch out for that lightning. You know, you definitely do not want to be in the ocean when there's lightning around. So if there's any thunder lightning, I'm out of the water right away."

The most common injury in surfing is lacerations caused by the reef bottom, fins, board edge and even the nose.
 
Transcript: "What is the most common injury in surfing? Well, I think you'd be surprised to know that it's not a sprained back or a sprained knee or ankle or even a shoulder. It's actually lacerations. We get cut a lot in surfing. If it's not the reef bottom or rock bottom, then it may be your fins or the edge of your board or even sometimes, unfortunately, the nose. So cuts and lacerations is the most common injury in surfing."

Longboards are easier to start with than short boards, but as you progress and want more control, a short board is better.
 
Transcript: "Hi Naomi. The question is, are long words easier than short boards? They absolutely are. In fact, I think so. My son has been surfing. He's eight years old and he's just transitioning from a longboard to a short board. And the whole thing is just, it's volume. It's basically having all that foam is way more forgiving, you know, as you as you progress and feel Like you want to control the surfboard more? It's much better to have a short board but in the beginning to get up and sort of just do the cruise, you're going to want a longboard have fun."

When I was 9 years old, I became committed and dedicated to becoming a surfer after watching the movie Endless Summer. I had no plan B and put all my eggs into this one basket.
 
Transcript: "This is gonna sound crazy, but I was committed and dedicated to my single sport when I was 9 years old, since sound crazy, but I saw a movie which was called Endless Summer to and that movie resonated so much with me and, and just being in the water. And, and just seeing all these guys, travel, the world and and surfing and just having the best time of their lives. I was just like this is what I'm going to do for the rest of my life. I don't care what I have to do. There's no plan B was just plan. A, I put all my eggs on and being a surfer because that's that's where my passion was. So yeah, I was pretty committed from a young age and yeah, that was there was no going back from there."

I'm a surfer, not a runner. Swimming > running.
 
Transcript: "I am not a runner, I am a surfer. I prefer being in the water than on the land and running is definitely, I'd rather swim 5k's than run 5k's to be honest so don't ask me about tying my shoes."