Climbing

Have you ever gotten stuck on a rock face?

Mastering the Art of Rappelling: Escaping Rock Face Dangers

Have I ever gotten stuck on a rock face? No. The great thing is I can always rappel down. So I just put some gear in the wall and head on back down and if I need to get to an anchor, I get to an anchor and continue rappelling. Or if I need to leave more gear, I leave more gear and get on down. That's kind of the cool things about climbing. As soon as the objective hazard or the conditions change in such a way that you cannot progress, you just go down. So, one thing to make sure you know how to do.

is to be sure you know how to rappel down and leave gear if needed, so that you can safely get back down the rock face.

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No, I have never gotten stuck on a rock face. The great thing about climbing is that I can always rappel down if needed. I place gear in the wall, make my way back down, and if necessary, reach an anchor point to continue rappelling. If I need to leave more gear behind, I do so and descend safely. That's one of the cool aspects of climbing – when conditions or hazards prevent progress, you simply go down. It's important to be familiar with rappelling techniques and know how to navigate these situations.

Why is it suggested to walk through mud on a trail to a climb rather than around it?

Preserving trails: Why walking through mud matters

Why should you get your shoes dirty when there's water and mud on a trail? Well this one is all about keeping the trail the trail and not making the trail a wider trail. So if you kind of step around the outside then you're going to widen the trail and then someone else is going to do that and you're going to kill any of the vegetation on the outside of the trail. So what we want to do is just make sure we use the trail itself. So that goes ahead and asks the question well should you go out if the trail is so muddy that you're going to damage it all over the place? And I would say you probably shouldn't find a place where it's a little bit drier. Or ask your local climbing coalition to see if you can do some trail work to make it so it dries out sooner. Or maybe about adding some rock from the local environment. So there's a number of things you can do but you want to be proactive and actually leave the trail as a trail rather than making a giant wide path.

You should get your shoes dirty to help keep the trails in their original form and prevent widening them. If the trail is too muddy, you can look for a drier area or contact the local climbing coalition to do some trail work to make it viable again.

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Why is it advised to walk through mud on a trail instead of going around it? The reason behind this recommendation is to preserve the integrity of the trail and prevent it from widening. When people step around the muddy areas, it causes the trail to become wider over time. This can lead to vegetation being trampled and damaged on the outer edges of the trail. To maintain the trail as it is, it's important to stick to its designated path. However, what if the trail is extremely muddy and walking through it would cause significant damage? In such cases, it's best to find a slightly drier section or consult local climbing coalitions for guidance on potential trail work that can help improve drainage and drying of the muddy areas. Adding rocks from the local environment could also be a solution. The key is to take proactive measures that preserve the trail's original form and prevent creating wider, less sustainable paths.

What is forerunning and why is it important?

Unveiling Forerunning: Ensuring Climbing Routes Are Perfectly Designed

Forerunning. That's when someone climbs a boulder problem or a gym route and just to see how it works. Is it about the grade that we were shooting for? Is it about the difficulty of it or challenge that we were shooting for? Are the moves too far apart? Are the moves too close together? Can you cheat the moves? Whether it's a boulder problem or a route. So forerunning just make sure that the route is set the way it was intended and then any adjustments are made to go ahead and make sure that it does climb the way that it was intended and that you cannot cheat the movements.

For running, make sure that the route is set correctly and any adjustments are made to ensure it climbs as intended without being able to cheat the movements.

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Forerunning is the act of climbing a boulder problem or a gym route to assess how it functions. It involves examining factors such as the intended grade, difficulty, and challenge of the climb. The purpose is to determine if the moves are appropriately spaced, if cheating the movements is possible, and if any adjustments need to be made to ensure it aligns with its intended design. Forerunning ensures that the route or problem is set as intended and helps maintain the integrity of the climb.

Are nuts and cams less safe to use when rock is wet?

Rock type matters: Nuts and cams on wet surfaces

Are nuts and cams less safe to use when the rock is wet? So first and foremost if you're on sandstone and it is soft sandstone or some type of conglomerate which is made of particles and smaller rocks, if the conglomerate or the sandstone is not very solid, certainly the nuts in the cams can either slide out and like grind it the rock away or they can actually just destroy the rock. Now if you're talking about granite or limestone or volcanic rock, probably they're going to be better. Ultimately when the rock is wet we want to just avoid climbing on it and give it the time it needs to dry off. So sandstones and conglomerates, those need much more time to dry off in a warm environment. But granite, you know, as soon as the sun comes back out after it rains it's immediately dry so you can go ahead and use it.

Avoid climbing on wet rock, especially soft Sandstone or conglomerate. Granite and Limestone can be used soon after they dry off, but wait to use nuts in cams until the rock is completely dry.

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Are nuts and cams less safe to use when the rock is wet? When dealing with soft sandstone or conglomerate rock, nuts and cams may slide out or damage the rock due to its lack of solidity. However, if you're climbing on granite, limestone, or volcanic rock, they are likely to offer better stability. It's important to note that when rocks are wet, it's generally advisable to avoid climbing on them and give them time to dry off. Sandstones and conglomerates, in particular, require more time to dry in warmer environments. On the other hand, granite tends to dry quickly once the sun comes out after rain, making it suitable for use sooner.

Can you tell us how you manage fear when you're rock climbing?

How a rock climber conquers fear: breathing routine, mentality, and confidence

How do I manage fear when climbing? Well, I practice a breathing routine, I practice a mentality, and I make sure it comes to life on every climb that I do. So I always kind of go back to this four-step breathing routine. And as far as the, what do I practice in addition to that while I'm climbing, is I always remind myself that it's within my means, and I wouldn't be on it if it was beyond my means. So if it's within my means, and I go ahead and keep a cool head, then I can push forward and do my best and not worry about the consequences.

To manage fear while climbing, I practice a four step breathing routine and remind myself that the climb is within my means.

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Managing fear while rock climbing involves practicing a breathing routine and maintaining a specific mindset. For me, I rely on a four-step breathing routine to help center myself. Additionally, I remind myself that the climb is within my capabilities. If it was beyond my abilities, I wouldn't be attempting it. By keeping a calm and composed mindset, I can push forward and give it my best without worrying excessively about the potential consequences.

What are your thoughts on climbers who bring alcohol to a climb?

Alcohol on Climbs: Personal Choice or Potential Risk?

My thoughts on climbers who bring alcohol to a climb or climbing area? That's their prerogative. I'm not going to be one to bring alcohol to a climbing area. I myself do not even drink alcohol, but for me to say they can't, you know, that's not for me to say. I can say that if someone is drunk I'm not going to climb with them and I'm not going to have them belay with me, but if they're hanging out after they're done climbing and enjoying a refreshment then who am I to say no, it's not my life. So there you go.

While I don't personally drink alcohol, it's each climber's prerogative to bring alcohol to a climbing area. That said, I wouldn't climb or belay with someone who appears to be drunk.

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Regarding climbers who bring alcohol to a climb or climbing area, it is their choice. Personally, I do not bring alcohol to climbing areas as I don't drink it myself. However, I don't believe it's my place to dictate what others can or cannot do. If someone is intoxicated, I won't climb with them or have them belay for me. But if they choose to enjoy a refreshment after climbing, it's their decision and I respect that. Ultimately, it's their life and their choice.

Rob Pizem answers your Climbing questions. See all the advice Rob Pizem has and get answers to your own Climbing questions.

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Rob was born in Ohio and didn't even learn about rock climbing until after graduating high school. Having his first climbing experiences at the New River Gorge, West Virginia gave him the climbing bug and he has been at for over 30 years. He continues to travel the world for climbing and adventuring, always seeking the ever elusive perfect route. His passion is establishing new climbs big and small. His favorite places to climb are in the Italian Dolomites and in Zion National Park. He has been teaching high school science and engineering for over 20 years. Rob now resides in Grand Junction, Colorado where he is a proud husband and a father of two boys.