Climbing

For first time climbers why is a flat sole more recommended?

Comfortable and Effective: Why First-time Climbers Should Choose a Flat Sole Shoe

First time climbers enjoy wearing a flat sole shoe because it is more like the regular shoes that they're wearing. So that means if you put them in a very tight-fitting downturn shoe they're going to be extremely uncomfortable and then they're not going to use their feet very well. The other thing about a flat sole shoe is that you get to develop your toe strength and foot strength when you're standing on holds. A lot of folks don't like to make that initial transition with a very downturned shoe on it. So bottom line is a flat sole is going to be an easier transition for someone who hasn't climbed before. It's going to be more comfortable, they're going to be able to keep the shoe on longer, and they're going to be able to improve their footwork. Once they start changing the terrain that they're climbing on and it gets a little bit more overhanging, they will see the benefit of having a slightly or very downturned shoe.

For first time climbers, flat-soled shoes are more comfortable, will help develop toe and foot strength, and make it easier to transition to a slightly or very downturn shoe once they start climbing more challenging terrain.

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For first-time climbers, wearing a flat sole shoe is often recommended for a few reasons. Firstly, it provides a similar feel to regular shoes, making it more comfortable for beginners who are not used to the specific demands of climbing footwear. Tight-fitting downturn shoes can be extremely uncomfortable for newcomers and hinder their ability to use their feet effectively.

Secondly, a flat sole shoe allows beginners to develop their toe and foot strength while standing on holds. This gradual strengthening of the feet is important for improving footwork and overall climbing ability. Many climbers prefer to make the initial transition with a flat sole shoe before moving on to more specialized footwear.

In summary, a flat sole shoe offers an easier transition for first-time climbers. It provides comfort, allows for longer wear, and helps improve footwork. As climbers progress to more challenging and overhanging terrain, they may eventually benefit from using slightly or very downturned shoes.

My fingers get cold while I’m rockclimbing. Can you suggest something to help that?

Conquer Cold Fingers While Climbing: Expert Tips & Tricks

So you get cold fingers when you're climbing, join the crew. I've done a couple things. One has been a personal choice to go ahead and accept that cold is actually warm. So I reframed what warm was on my body and my hands are constantly cold all day long. My kids, I touch their neck and they're like, ah it's so cold. So I've made that temperature be acceptable to be warm enough. But if that doesn't go ahead and try to support you, one I recommend doing more things with cold hands. Whether they're working out cold, be outside without gloves on, just try to go ahead and increase your threshold for doing nimble and dexterous things with cold hands. The other thing I have friends that have done in the past, they've heated up rocks and put a rock in a chalk bag and they've also gone and put hand warmers in their chalk bag to warm their hands for climbing. So give those a try.

Try reframing cold as warm, do things with cold hands, or use handwarmers and heated rocks to keep your hands warm while climbing.

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If you're experiencing cold fingers while rock climbing, you're not alone. I've personally dealt with this issue and have a few suggestions. Firstly, consider reframing your perception of warmth. Accept that cold can be considered warm for your body. I've adjusted to having consistently cold hands throughout the day, and it has become an acceptable level of warmth for me.

If that doesn't work for you, try increasing your tolerance for doing activities with cold hands. Engage in workouts or spend time outside without gloves to gradually build up your ability to perform nimble tasks with cold hands.

Another option is to heat up rocks and place them in your chalk bag. Some climbers also use hand warmers in their chalk bags to warm their hands while climbing. Give these methods a try and see if they help alleviate the issue of cold fingers during your rock climbing sessions.

Why buy passive pro when active pro (like spring loaded camming devices) are so secure and easy to place?

Unveiling the Advantages of a Combination of Passive and Active Pro in Climbing

Great question about why buy Passive Pro and we have our Active Pro. For me, when I go up and adventure on things never climbed before, I don't know what is necessary to go ahead and protect the route safely. So I like to make sure that I carry a combination of Passive Pro and Active Pro. Also, if you're going out on big adventures into the unknown, if you need to leave behind an anchor piece, that Passive Pro is significantly cheaper, works just as well, and is something that you can leave behind and repel off of. So for me, the variety allows me access up the wall by having Passive and Active Pro. Now, Active Pro doesn't come into the tiniest sizes that small nuts and wires do, so you're getting some value there also as far as the size that you can actually protect in the rock.

When climbing, I like to carry a combination of passive Pro and active Pro so that I can access up the wall and protect the route safely. It also allows me to leave behind an anchor piece if needed, as passive Pro is significantly cheaper and works just as well when rappelling off.

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When it comes to choosing between Passive Pro and Active Pro (like spring-loaded camming devices), I prefer to have a combination of both. This is especially important when I'm climbing routes that have never been climbed before, as I don't know what kind of protection will be necessary. Having a mix of Passive Pro and Active Pro allows me to adapt to different situations and ensure the route is safely protected.

Additionally, if I'm embarking on big adventures into unknown territory, there may be instances where I need to leave behind an anchor piece. In such cases, Passive Pro is a more cost-effective option that works just as well. It can be left behind and used for rappelling. So, the versatility of having both Passive and Active Pro is valuable to me.

It's also worth noting that Active Pro doesn't come in the smallest sizes that small nuts and wires do. Therefore, having Passive Pro in my gear collection allows me to protect smaller cracks and crevices in the rock.

In summary, the combination of Passive Pro and Active Pro provides me with the flexibility, cost-effectiveness, and ability to protect a wide range of climbing situations.

What are the best kind of pants to wear rock climbing?

The ultimate pants for rock climbing: durability, flexibility, and pockets

The best pants for rock climbing? It all depends on what you want to do my friend. I want mobility so I want to be able to move and move freely without restriction. I want durability so typically that's probably going to be a nylon style or of pant rather than a cotton blend. I want windproofness. I want it to be very abrasive resistant. So I'm usually looking for a technical pant that's got a little reinforcement in the knees and around the ankles. Sometimes a little drawstring at the bottom of the pant to keep the wind out. I want it to have a waist area that is not a tight little string. I'd rather have a smaller belt with a small buckle to go ahead and hold my pants up. Usually I'd like a one pocket over the thigh to hold anything while I'm on route. So something that's durable, flexible, and has a nice pocket.

I'm looking for a technical pant that is nylon, windproof, abrasion-resistant, with a reinforced knee and ankle area, a belt with a buckle, and one pocket over the thigh.

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The best pants for rock climbing depend on your preferences and needs. For optimal mobility, choose pants that allow you to move freely without restrictions. Nylon pants are often more durable than cotton blends and provide better windproofness and abrasion resistance. Look for technical pants with reinforced knees and ankles, and consider pants with a drawstring at the bottom to keep the wind out. A waist area with a small belt and buckle is preferable over a tight string. Having a pocket over the thigh can be useful for holding items while on the route. Ultimately, prioritize durability, flexibility, and the presence of a functional pocket when selecting rock climbing pants.

How many years should you keep your equipment like a harness? To be safe?

Harness Safety: When to Retire Your Equipment

How many years should you keep your equipment like a harness to be safe? Well this is one of those tricky questions that there's never going to be a right answer. There's going to be what is the condition of your harness and ultimately I would check with a manufacturer and see what they suggest. If your harness is looking worn out in the belay loop and around the waist belt then that's definitely a time to go ahead and retire it. But if it doesn't look like there's anywhere and it's 10 years old that's where you want to go ahead and ask an actual manufacturer. My personal philosophy would be if it hasn't been used for a long time I don't know what condition it is even if it looks fine. I'm gonna retire it and get something new. So I would always err on the safe side because if your harness breaks you're dead so don't ever trust it if it hasn't been used.

Check with the manufacturer for specific advice, but typically it is safest to retire a harness after 10 years of use or if it looks worn out.

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Determining how many years to keep your equipment, such as a harness, to ensure safety is a tricky question without a definitive answer. The condition of your harness is the key factor to consider. It is advisable to consult the manufacturer for their recommendations.

If your harness shows signs of wear, particularly around the belay loop and waist belt, it is definitely time to retire it. However, if it appears to be in good condition despite being 10 years old, it is best to seek guidance from the manufacturer.

Personally, I follow the philosophy of retiring a harness that hasn't been used for a long time, even if it appears fine. It's better to err on the safe side because if a harness were to fail, the consequences could be fatal. Therefore, I would never trust a harness that hasn't been used and opt for a new one instead.

What advice do you have for shorter climbers?

Mastering Footwork, Finger Strength, and Core for Short Climbers

What advice do I have for shorter climbers? Usually the success for you comes from using your feet and pushing your way up and getting them really high and standing up to maybe make those reaches that are difficult or the holds that you can't reach with the normal feet. And lock off strength. Finger strength, lock off strength. So fingers to be able to hold on to those micro holds in between those teeny ones. And then lock off strength is when your arm isn't straight on, you actually pull it to about here and then the rest of your body moves up, up, up, up, up, up and you reach the hold. So having good core strength, good footwork, and good lock off strength in addition to finger strength will go ahead and help you find your way around those sequences where maybe others can just reach through them. But when you're shorter, you gotta rely on footwork, fingers, feet, or sorry, strength and core.

To be successful as a shorter climber, focus on developing your footwork, finger strength, lock off strength and core strength. This will help you get around sequences that may be difficult for taller climbers to reach.

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For shorter climbers, my advice would be to focus on using your feet effectively and pushing them as high as possible. This will help you make difficult reaches and access holds that may be out of your normal reach. Additionally, developing strong finger strength is crucial for holding onto micro holds and in-between grips. Lock off strength is another key aspect, where you pull your arm to a bent position and use the rest of your body to move upward until you reach the hold. It's important to have good core strength, solid footwork, and strong lock off ability in addition to finger strength. These skills will help you navigate sequences that taller climbers might be able to simply reach through. Emphasizing footwork, finger strength, overall strength, and core will greatly benefit shorter climbers.

Rob Pizem answers your Climbing questions. See all the advice Rob Pizem has and get answers to your own Climbing questions.

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Rob was born in Ohio and didn't even learn about rock climbing until after graduating high school. Having his first climbing experiences at the New River Gorge, West Virginia gave him the climbing bug and he has been at for over 30 years. He continues to travel the world for climbing and adventuring, always seeking the ever elusive perfect route. His passion is establishing new climbs big and small. His favorite places to climb are in the Italian Dolomites and in Zion National Park. He has been teaching high school science and engineering for over 20 years. Rob now resides in Grand Junction, Colorado where he is a proud husband and a father of two boys.