Surfing

How do you decide how many fins a surfboard should have?

Choosing Surfboard Fins: The Thruster Reigns Supreme

Okay. So how many Finns should we have in our surfboard? So the standard board is a Thruster, which is three friends and this is the most all-around. It's the most forgiving, it's the easiest to Surf. So most people are using a three from set up. Three fins is really good for doing turns. It's a having the the two fins on the side and the one in the middle. It is the middle fin. Kind of gives you the the Mobilization, the side fins, give you the acceleration and the drive. I like to use a forefend set up when the waves gets steeper forth and set up is a quad. Because when the waves are really steep, I like to have more friends to help me when I'm taking off on a very steep wave to help me to stay engaged to the face of the wave for Orphans. Also give you more drive and more acceleration. However they draw your turns out a little bit more so they make the board a little bit more unpredictable. Abel and a little bit more difficult to serve. And then the more old school, you get twin fin, which is the to there can be really fun and give you a different feel, but there are a lot less predictable than a Thruster. And then if you're going Single Fin, I don't ride. Many single friends. They're a lot more difficult to ride and you have to nurse your turns a lot more. You can't just crank it. So if you want the easiest way forward, go three phones, Thruster, that's kind of what everyone's doing.

The most common setup for a surfboard is a Thruster with three fins, which is forgiving and easy to ride. A Quad setup can make the board more responsive when riding steep waves. Twin fain and single fin setups are less predictable and require more effort to turn.

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When deciding how many fins to have on a surfboard, there are a few factors to consider. The standard setup is a Thruster, which consists of three fins. This configuration is the most versatile, forgiving, and easy to surf, making it popular among most surfers.

The three-fin setup, with two fins on the sides and one in the middle, is great for performing turns. The middle fin provides stability and maneuverability, while the side fins offer acceleration and drive.

In steeper waves, some surfers prefer a four-fin setup known as a quad. The additional fins provide more control and help with takeoff on steep waves. Quads offer increased drive and acceleration but can make turns feel slightly different and less predictable.

For a more old-school feel, twin fins with two fins can be enjoyable and provide a unique surfing experience. However, they are less predictable compared to a Thruster setup.

Single fins are less common, as they require more finesse and precision in turns. They can be more challenging to ride, as you need to be more deliberate with your movements.

In summary, if you want an easy and versatile setup, go for the standard three-fin Thruster configuration, as it is widely used and suitable for various surfing conditions.

Is it better to store surfboards vertically or horizontally?

Surfboards: Vertical or Horizontal Storage? Find Out the Best Method

Is it better to store surfboards vertically or horizontally? I would say it is better to store vertically, but it obviously depends on the size of the Borgia storing and the space. You have storing boards, vertically, I find you can fit a lot of boards packed tight in a very small space as long as the roof is high enough. If you have a board over nine foot long, you can't store it vertically. Obviously, if the roof is too high. So then you have to make another plan horizontal. So this is my board rack with some of my board. So you can see I've got a lot of boards stacked in a very tight space and it's also a lot easier to rig up a rack for vertical because there's no weight bearing on the rack. Where's if we putting up a rack for horizontal boards, if you stack a couple big boards on that, there's a lot of weight on the rack and I can pull out the wall, you can break your boards. However, I do think for like garage spaces if We have big boards storing them, horizontally like above, where you walk above where cars apart, that's also great to keep them out the way, so maybe do something hanging from the roof or above. We're people are walking around then you can store your big boards. Horizontally further up in the roof

It is better to store surfboards vertically as it is more space efficient and does not put weight on the rack, but for large boards it is best to store them horizontally in an area where people are not walking.

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When it comes to storing surfboards, it is generally better to store them vertically. However, this preference depends on the size of the boards and the available space. Storing boards vertically allows for efficient use of space, especially if the ceiling height permits. You can fit multiple boards tightly packed in a small area. However, if you have a board longer than nine feet or if the ceiling is too low, storing horizontally becomes necessary.

Vertical storage is also easier to set up as there is no weight bearing on the rack. On the other hand, horizontal storage requires a sturdy rack to support the weight of the boards. If you stack multiple large boards on a horizontal rack, it can strain the rack and potentially damage the boards or the wall.

In certain situations, such as in a garage where space is limited, storing big boards horizontally above where people walk or park cars can be a good option. Hanging the boards from the roof or using overhead storage can keep them out of the way while still being easily accessible.

Ultimately, the choice between vertical and horizontal storage depends on the size of the boards, the available space, and the specific needs of the storage area.

Does everyone have to start with a longer board?

Surfing 101: Start with a longer board for stability and paddle power

Yes, I think it is wise for everyone to start surfing on a longer board because a longer board provides more stability. The longer and wider a surfboard is, the more stability it has and the easier you're going to be able to pop up on a wave, be stable enough to ride the wave. Having the longer board also gives you more paddle power. That's one of the things that a learner will struggle with is developing those shoulder strength, building enough strength in the beginning is very important to build up enough paddle power to catch the wave. That's something a learner will struggle with and a longer board will help with paddle power. I would recommend hiring out a long board to start, getting used to it and then from there you can decide what board you want to move up to because generally as you get better you want more maneuverability, you sacrifice the paddle power and the stability for more maneuverability and you go shorter. Once you find your sweet spot after hiring a few boards then you can commit and buy a surfboard. Hope that helps.

Everyone should start surfing on a longer board for more stability, paddle power and ease of popping up. Hiring a longboard is recommended to gain experience before committing to purchasing one.

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Starting with a longer board is indeed advisable for everyone when learning to surf. A longer board provides greater stability, making it easier to pop up on a wave and maintain balance while riding it. Additionally, a longer board offers more paddle power, which is crucial for beginners who may struggle with developing shoulder strength and generating enough power to catch waves.

I would recommend renting a long board initially to get comfortable with it. This will allow you to gauge your preferences and progress. As you improve, you may desire more maneuverability, which often comes with shorter boards. However, shorter boards sacrifice some paddle power and stability. Once you have rented and tried out a few boards, you can determine your preferred size and style before making a purchase.

Starting with a longer board provides a solid foundation for learning to surf, and as you gain experience, you can make an informed decision about the type of surfboard that suits your skills and preferences.

What's your favorite thing about surfing?

The Thrill of Riding the Unpredictable Wave

I think one of my favorite things about surfing is the unpredictability of it because the weather, the ocean, everything is so unpredictable and so far beyond our control and there's this I've had a few of these moments in my life where everything it's just come together to send me the perfect wave and I've also been in the right mindset to say yes to say a 40-foot wave or however big it is and be in the right place the right time on the right equipment in amongst all that unpredictability and when everything comes together and have that incredible ride in the midst of that chaos it's just the most satisfying and incredible feeling more often than not so often it goes the wrong way being unpredictable but when it all comes together it's absolutely amazing

I like that surfing is unpredictable, and when everything comes together it creates an incredible feeling of satisfaction.

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One of my favorite things about surfing is the unpredictability of it. The weather, the ocean, everything is beyond our control. There have been moments in my life where everything aligned perfectly, and I caught the perfect wave. I was in the right mindset to take on a big wave, in the right place at the right time, with the right equipment. In the midst of all that unpredictability, when everything comes together, it's an incredibly satisfying and amazing feeling. It doesn't always go that way, as surfing is often unpredictable, but when it does, it's absolutely incredible.

What's the best way to travel with a surfboard?

Master the Art: Traveling with a Surfboard Made Easy

The best way to travel with a surfboard, first you want to select the right airlines, so check airline policies. I've been very fortunate with Emirates and Qatar, they allow you to take two pieces, 23 kilos, they never measure the length of my boards. I've successfully travelled with 10 foot surfboards with them. And then, yeah, obviously boards are fragile so you want to have a nice board bag with padding. I use a travel coffin and you get, I think it's like 20 mil padding, you want nice thick padding in the board bag. I don't use board bags that have wheels because they add a lot of extra weight. And then most importantly is to pad the tail and the nose of the board. So those are the first places where I stick my towel, my clothes, my wetsuits, to pad the nose and the tail. And then the rails. It's very rarely that you get dings on the deck of the board or underneath, it's always on the rails or on the nose of the tail. So make sure you pad those. I always chuck my clothing in my board bag and I pad all those areas with my clothes, my undies, my socks, all that kind of stuff.

When travelling with a surfboard, make sure to check the airline policies first. Select a quality board bag with plenty of padding and pack the bag with clothes and other items to provide extra cushioning for the board. Pay special attention to padding the nose and tail of the board as these are the areas most likely to sustain damage.

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When it comes to traveling with a surfboard, there are a few key considerations. First, select airlines that have favorable policies for transporting surfboards. Check their specific guidelines and restrictions. Airlines like Emirates and Qatar have been known to allow two pieces of luggage weighing up to 23 kilos each, without measuring the length of the boards. This flexibility can be beneficial for traveling with longer surfboards.

To protect your surfboard during travel, invest in a high-quality board bag with ample padding. A travel coffin-style bag with around 20 millimeters of padding is recommended. Avoid board bags with wheels, as they add unnecessary weight.

The most important step is to pad the tail and nose of the surfboard. These areas are prone to damage. Utilize towels, clothes, wetsuits, or any soft items to provide extra cushioning. Additionally, pay attention to the rails, as they are another vulnerable area. Dings and damages often occur on the rails or the nose and tail of the board.

Maximize space in your board bag by packing your clothing, towels, and other soft items around the surfboard. This not only provides additional padding but also helps to make the most of the available space.

By following these tips, you can ensure that your surfboard is well-protected and ready for your travel adventures.

What is the biggest wave you have ever paddled into?

Conquering Jaws: Surfer's Epic Battle with a 50-Foot Wave

The biggest wave that I've ever paddled into was Jaws off the island of Maui in Hawaii in 2016. It was a very, very special day. I remember seeing the Horizon code dark and this huge set of waves rolled in and I looked up in the biggest way of I'd ever seen in, my life was tiring over me. It was about 50 foot high and I'll just feeling super good, super calm in the zone pointed my nose towards the rocks and I just started paddling. And as I was paddling into the way, I could feel myself, surging forward, through the water fought really good in the wave. Pick me up leant over the edge dropped in. And as I went down the way face, the wind chops blowing back up, the wave was so big. They'll trying to Buck me off my board so I was very focused on balancing all the way down. I got to the bottom and I should have been pulling up already onto the way face and I didn't do it in time. So I looked up and 50 foot above me. The look was already falling and I had to straighten out and the lip of the wave broke on the tail of my board and forth. Like a truck hit me and it just pushed me so deep down under the water, I snapped my leash. Lost my ball on the Rocks was underwater forever and was just upset on inside out the one of the worst beatings ever. But I came up and scared and I got the picture and it was Yeah, by far the biggest day of my life. this was at the bottom of the wave, just before the Avalanche, Chrome crashed over me and sent me down into the depths

I paddled into a 50 foot wave off the island of Maui in 2016. I felt myself surging forward through the water and eventually dropped in. As I went down the face of the wave, the wind was blowing back up and I was trying to stay balanced. Unfortunately I didn't pull up in time and the lip of the wave broke on the tail of my board and it felt like a truck hit me. I got the picture but it was one of the worst beatings ever.

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The biggest wave I've ever paddled into was at Jaws off the island of Maui in Hawaii in 2016. It was an unforgettable day. I saw the horizon turn dark as a massive set of waves rolled in. The wave that I paddled into was about 50 feet high. I felt calm and focused as I pointed my board towards the rocks and started paddling.

As I paddled into the wave, I could feel the surge of energy propelling me forward. I positioned myself on the edge and dropped in. The wind chops were intense, trying to knock me off my board, but I managed to maintain my balance. I reached the bottom of the wave, but I didn't pull up in time. The massive lip of the wave broke on the tail of my board, sending me deep underwater. I snapped my leash, lost my board, and experienced one of the worst beatings ever. It was a scary moment, but I eventually resurfaced, shaken but relieved.

Despite the wipeout, I managed to capture the moment in a picture. It was truly the biggest day of my life. The wave at the bottom, just before the crashing avalanche of foam, was a sight to behold.

Matt Bromley answers your Surfing questions. See all the advice Matt Bromley has and get answers to your own Surfing questions.

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Matt started surfing when he was 6 years old, in Cape Town, South Africa. He grew to become one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. He watches the globe for large storms, and when all the elements come together, books a ticket and chases the energy across the world. He documents the big waves these storms create and produces high-quality content that is distributed through various global media platforms. Matt's other passion is sharing his experiences to inspire and empower people to ride their "big waves".