Surfing

Unleash the Power of Compression and Extension for Speed!

Okay so speed is generated in two ways. The first one is through compression and extension. If you think of a spring, the more that a spring compresses and winds up, the more it can explode. And the best place to do this is on the bottom turn. So when you take off you go to the bottom of the wave and the more you kind of wind up and compress, the more you can extend up the wave face and generate speed as you go up to hit the lip. So compression and extension, compression extension, are really really important for generating speed. And the other way we do it is by staying in the top third of the wave. So we often do this when the waves are really small. You paddle into the wave and instead of dropping down straight to your bottom turn, just go straight up into the top third of the wave and stay up there until you get the speed and then drop down, compress and then extend up so that the compression extension kind of gives energy into the board to squirt you up the wave face. You never want to be riding a wave just laterally in the middle. You either want to be at the top generating speed or coming off the bottom deep and then going up into the lip. So try to try to to do that and that combination of going high generating speed in the top third combined with the compression and extension, that will help a surfer to to generate a lot of speed but also to create flow. And you won't have to do a lot of pumping or unnecessary movements if you get that right. It'll look effortless effortless and you see guys like Jordie Smith or Julian Wilson, these guys do it really well. It looks like they're not putting any effort in because they're going into the top third and they're compressing as they go down and they're super low on the bottom turn extending up into the lip.

Speed is generated in two ways, compression and extension and by staying in the top third of the wave. Compression and extension is important when taking off and going to the bottom of the wave, while staying in the top third of the wave generates speed without unnecessary movement. Professional surfers like Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson use this method to look effortless while surfing.

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Speed can be generated in two ways: compression and extension, and staying in the top third of the wave. Compression and extension involve winding up like a spring at the bottom turn, then extending up the wave face to generate speed. Staying in the top third of the wave is useful for smaller waves. Rather than immediately dropping down into a bottom turn, paddle into the wave and go straight up to the top third, staying there until you gain speed. Then, drop down, compress, and extend up to transfer energy into the board and propel yourself up the wave face. It's important to avoid riding a wave laterally in the middle; instead, focus on either generating speed at the top or dropping deep into a bottom turn and going up into the lip. This combination of going high in the top third and using compression and extension will help generate speed while maintaining flow. By mastering this technique, surfers can achieve an effortless look with minimal unnecessary movements. Surfers like Jordie Smith and Julian Wilson exemplify this style, making it appear effortless as they stay high on the wave, compress on the bottom turn, and extend into the lip.

Indonesia's Nias: The Perfect Wave that Delivers

My favorite wave is nias in Indonesia. The reason I love it so much. Is I love the community, they're the people, but it's also just the most perfect wave. I go there. Every year, every time I see a big swollen, the charts heading to Indonesia. I look straight at in the ass and if it looks good, I booked a ticket and I follow it. It just delivers up. It breaks in exactly the same place every time. And once, you know, your lineups, you can pinpoint exactly where to sit and every time take off from the same. Place super steep drop but once you make it you pull up, you just stand tall on us. Massive barrel for like 5 seconds and then spits you out into the channel into the safe Zone and then you can pedal back with your hair dry straight to the next one, you surrounded by palm trees. It's a northern Sumatra, it's so beautiful and warm and it's a very special place to me. This was in 2018 during the biggest wall that ever hit. Indonesia and was one of the rides of my life.

I love Nias in Indonesia because of the perfect wave, the community and the beautiful scenery. Every time I see a swell heading to Indonesia, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave offers a steep drop with a massive barrel followed by a safe zone. It's one of my favorite places and 2018 was especially memorable during the biggest swell that ever hit Indonesia.

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My favorite wave is Nias in Indonesia. I love it because of the incredible community and the perfect wave it offers. Every year, when I see a big swell heading to Indonesia, I immediately look at Nias. If it looks good, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave breaks in the same spot every time, allowing me to find my lineup and know exactly where to sit. The takeoff is steep, but once you make it, you can stand tall and enjoy a massive barrel for about 5 seconds. It then spits you out into the channel, where you can pedal back with dry hair to catch the next wave. Surrounded by palm trees, Nias in northern Sumatra is a beautiful and warm place. It holds a special significance for me. In 2018, during the biggest swell to hit Indonesia, I had one of the best rides of my life there.

Thicker or Thinner? The Key to Choosing the Right Surfboard.

Is a thicker surfboard better, so this totally depends on what you're looking to get out of your surfing. For instance, if you're learning, you're going to be on a much thicker surfboard. So, the thicker, the board, the more volume the board has the more floated has and the more stable it will be and the easier it is to paddle so big boards. Thicker boards are used when you're learning to surf, because they are much more stable their paddle fast, The so it's easier to catch the waves when you want to get more advanced and you're surfing, you want to make the board lot thinner, because the thinner, the board, the less volume it has, the more maneuverability you have on the wave. So, like myself being a professional Surfer. When I'm surfing in smaller ways, I'm using a board that is just over 2 inches thick, so it's pretty thin, but then going into bigger waves, we use a board. That's actually very thick because the extra volume helps with paddles. Power. And when the waves are huge are moving really fast through the water and you need the extra Pedal Power and the volume to be able to catch the waves. So, in short, when you learn to serve using a thicker board, it's adds a lot more stability makes things easier. And as you progress, you should go thinner and thinner depending on your weight and the volume that is appropriate for the waves, you surfing, and for how heavy you are.

It depends on what you're looking to get out of your surfing. For learning, a thicker surfboard is better because it is more stable and easier to paddle. As you become more advanced, you should go thinner for more maneuverability and depending on your weight and the size of the waves.

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Whether a thicker surfboard is better depends on your surfing goals and skill level. Thicker surfboards are ideal for beginners as they provide more volume, stability, and easier paddling. They are easier to catch waves with and are suitable for learning purposes.

On the other hand, if you want to advance in your surfing and prioritize maneuverability on the wave, a thinner surfboard is preferred. Thinner boards have less volume, allowing for greater maneuverability and control.

Professional surfers often use thinner boards for smaller waves, as it provides more control. However, for bigger waves that require more power and paddle strength, thicker boards with extra volume are used.

In summary, thicker boards are beneficial for stability and ease of learning, while thinner boards offer increased maneuverability. As you progress in your surfing journey, you may opt for thinner boards based on your weight, the appropriate volume for the waves you surf, and your skill level.

From Foam to Fiberglass: Unveiling the Modern Surfboard-Making Process

How are modern surfboards made? They are made. So you have starting off with the blank, which is polystyrene foam. You have like a very rough cut that comes from the supplier. The this is cut in half and then a Stringer is put in the string, it gives it extra strength and then the two halves of polystyrene are pressed together. So there's glue and they pressed together to make the the rough cut. All of the blank, then what most shape is do these days, is they use machines. So you punch in, I think it's like 80 to 100 coordinates to get the exact dimensions of what you want in the surfboard. They put it on a machine and out of that, very rough blank is shaped perfect surfboard. Then the takes a little bit of sanding and finishing to to get the blank perfect. And then after that, it is covered in cloth and An. And then that is, then often people put that in UV boxes. So that cures the resin with the fiberglass, makes it hard. So they'll have to one or two layers on the top and on the bottom, and that is how a regular surfboard is made. and there's also the options of the other shapes like the Eco and epoxy

Modern surfboards are made from polystyrene foam blanks that are cut in half and have a stringer inserted for strength. The blanks are then shaped using machines to precise dimensions, sanded and finished before being covered with cloth and resin which is cured in UV boxes. There are also options of other shapes such as Eco and epoxy.

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Modern surfboards are made using a specific process. It begins with a polystyrene foam blank, which is a rough cut obtained from a supplier. The blank is then cut in half, and a stringer is inserted to provide additional strength. The two halves of the polystyrene are glued together, forming the rough shape of the surfboard.

Most shapers nowadays utilize machines for the shaping process. They input around 80 to 100 coordinates to ensure precise dimensions. The machine then shapes the rough blank into a perfectly formed surfboard. Some sanding and finishing touches may be required to achieve the desired result.

After shaping, the surfboard is covered in cloth and resin. Many manufacturers place the board in UV boxes to cure the resin and fiberglass, resulting in a hardened surface. Typically, there are one or two layers of fiberglass on the top and bottom of the board.

It's worth noting that there are also alternative options available, such as eco-friendly and epoxy surfboards.

Why is it that board surfaces can be either concave or convex?

Surfboard Surfaces: The Dynamics of Concave and Convex

Okay. So bored surfaces can be either concave or convex so basically the deck of your board will either be flat. So the top of the board where that you standing on is either flat or it is convex it'll never be concave on top. Basically you want thickness in the in under the in the Stringer which is the middle of the board. The thickness is extra flotation which helps you to paddle better but then it tapers down as it Moves to the size of the board to the rail because if you're going very fast and your rail is too thick, you won't be able to sink the rail into the water. So the rail is is tapered down and much thinner than the middle of the board that good for causes a convex on top. If you're talking about the underneath of the board, we often have a concave concave is better for small waves because concaves help the board to generate speed. Where's convex is used more for bigger. Big waves, and that because in big waves, you don't need to generate speed, you really going fast enough. The problem with having a concave board in big ways, if you're going very fast is sometimes that that concave are gets stuck under the board, it causes almost like a bubble and you get you float a bit too much on top of the, the water when you surfing, so you feel a bit detached. So convex is often used for bigger waves. Concave as used underneath for smaller waves,

The top of the board is either flat or convex, whereas the bottom of the board can be either concave or convex. Concave boards are better for small waves as they help generate speed, whereas convex boards are better for bigger waves as they prevent the board from getting stuck under the water.

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Board surfaces can be either concave or convex due to the design considerations for different types of waves. 

On the top of the board, the deck can be either flat or convex. The thickness of the board is important for flotation and paddling efficiency. The middle of the board, known as the Stringer, is thicker to provide extra flotation. However, as the board tapers towards the rail, it becomes thinner. This allows for better maneuverability at high speeds, as a thick rail would prevent the board from sinking into the water. This tapering creates a convex shape on the top of the board.

On the underside of the board, concave and convex shapes are used for different wave conditions. Concave surfaces help generate speed and are beneficial for smaller waves. The concave shape assists in channeling water flow and creating lift, allowing the board to generate more speed. 

Conversely, convex surfaces are used for bigger waves. In larger waves, generating speed is less of a concern as the wave itself provides ample speed. Having a concave shape in big waves can cause the board to float too much on top of the water, leading to a detached feeling. Convex surfaces are used to avoid this issue and provide better control in larger wave conditions.

So, the choice between concave and convex surfaces depends on the wave size and the desired performance characteristics for optimal surfing experience.

What’s the most expensive piece of equipment you own?

Surviving the Depths: The Pricey Lifesaver Every Big Wave Surfer Needs

The most expensive piece of equipment. I own is my big wave inflation vest. So these inflation versus were only created now maybe in the last 10 years basically the big wave surf when you get held under the water everyone knows wearing this big wave this. So when I'm holding the water, I can pull the tag which punctures a CO2 cartridge of compressed CO2, which inflates a bladder with air and it brings me Me up much quicker. So I've got a really top of the range 1. Now I've got space for four cartridges in it. I've got a release valve that can deflate the air and I have in there and it's also got flotation pads in it, which helpful impact, and also give me extra flotation. So these things are absolutely crucial in. Bring me back to the surface. When I feel like I'm so deep underwater and I could draw on, and my one is probably going for, For knowing rant about 16 to 20 thousand round which is probably about 1,000 1,200 dollars.

My most expensive piece of equipment is my big wave inflation vest, which costs around $1,200. It has four CO2 cartridges, a release valve, and flotation pads, allowing me to quickly return to the surface if I am held under water while surfing.

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The most expensive piece of equipment I own is my big wave inflation vest. These vests were created in the last decade for big wave surfers. When held underwater, I can pull a tag that punctures a CO2 cartridge, inflating a bladder with air and bringing me to the surface more quickly. My vest is top of the range, with space for four cartridges, a release valve, flotation pads for impact protection, and extra flotation. These vests are crucial for surfers in deep water. Mine is valued at around 16 to 20 thousand rand, which is approximately 1,000 to 1,200 dollars.

Matt Bromley answers your Surfing questions. See all the advice Matt Bromley has and get answers to your own Surfing questions.

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Matt started surfing when he was 6 years old, in Cape Town, South Africa. He grew to become one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. He watches the globe for large storms, and when all the elements come together, books a ticket and chases the energy across the world. He documents the big waves these storms create and produces high-quality content that is distributed through various global media platforms. Matt's other passion is sharing his experiences to inspire and empower people to ride their "big waves".