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How do you generate speed?

Speed is generated in two ways, compression and extension and by staying in the top third of the wave. Compression and extension is important when taking off and going to the bottom of the wave, while staying in the top third of the wave generates speed without unnecessary movement. Professional surfers like Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson use this method to look effortless while surfing.
 
Transcript: "Okay so speed is generated in two ways. The first one is through compression and extension. If you think of a spring, the more that a spring compresses and winds up, the more it can explode. And the best place to do this is on the bottom turn. So when you take off you go to the bottom of the wave and the more you kind of wind up and compress, the more you can extend up the wave face and generate speed as you go up to hit the lip. So compression and extension, compression extension, are really really important for generating speed. And the other way we do it is by staying in the top third of the wave. So we often do this when the waves are really small. You paddle into the wave and instead of dropping down straight to your bottom turn, just go straight up into the top third of the wave and stay up there until you get the speed and then drop down, compress and then extend up so that the compression extension kind of gives energy into the board to squirt you up the wave face. You never want to be riding a wave just laterally in the middle. You either want to be at the top generating speed or coming off the bottom deep and then going up into the lip. So try to try to to do that and that combination of going high generating speed in the top third combined with the compression and extension, that will help a surfer to to generate a lot of speed but also to create flow. And you won't have to do a lot of pumping or unnecessary movements if you get that right. It'll look effortless effortless and you see guys like Jordie Smith or Julian Wilson, these guys do it really well. It looks like they're not putting any effort in because they're going into the top third and they're compressing as they go down and they're super low on the bottom turn extending up into the lip."
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How do you generate speed?

Speed is generated in two ways, compression and extension and by staying in the top third of the wave. Compression and extension is important when taking off and going to the bottom of the wave, while staying in the top third of the wave generates speed without unnecessary movement. Professional surfers like Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson use this method to look effortless while surfing.
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What is your favorite wave and why?

I love Nias in Indonesia because of the perfect wave, the community and the beautiful scenery. Every time I see a swell heading to Indonesia, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave offers a steep drop with a massive barrel followed by a safe zone. It's one of my favorite places and 2018 was especially memorable during the biggest swell that ever hit Indonesia.
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Is a thicker surfboard better?

It depends on what you're looking to get out of your surfing. For learning, a thicker surfboard is better because it is more stable and easier to paddle. As you become more advanced, you should go thinner for more maneuverability and depending on your weight and the size of the waves.
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How are modern surfboards made?

Modern surfboards are made from polystyrene foam blanks that are cut in half and have a stringer inserted for strength. The blanks are then shaped using machines to precise dimensions, sanded and finished before being covered with cloth and resin which is cured in UV boxes. There are also options of other shapes such as Eco and epoxy.
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What’s the most expensive piece of equipment you own?

My most expensive piece of equipment is my big wave inflation vest, which costs around $1,200. It has four CO2 cartridges, a release valve, and flotation pads, allowing me to quickly return to the surface if I am held under water while surfing.
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Why is it that board surfaces can be either concave or convex?

The top of the board is either flat or convex, whereas the bottom of the board can be either concave or convex. Concave boards are better for small waves as they help generate speed, whereas convex boards are better for bigger waves as they prevent the board from getting stuck under the water.