Surfing

What type of ocean floor creates the best type of wave?

Finding the Perfect Wave: Unveiling the Secrets of Ocean Floors

It's the best type of ocean floor for waves. It depends. What kind of way is you looking for, if you want intense barreling waves, you're looking for an ocean for, that's from very deep to shallow, very quickly. So the Steep, gradient creates a wave that rears are very fast and barrels and is very intense. A lot of people don't like these valves though, because the wave rears up so fast, on the other hand, if a lot of people's favorite waves are Long Point Break. So like in Jeffrey's Bay Inn in South Africa, We have the base right hand Point Break in the world. So the, the head land is at the perfect angle, as the waves wrap around the Headland. They sweep into the point and these long lines come in, and it's a fairly even gradient going from shallow to deep the waves break and peel along the rock. That's why it's called the point break. So peels along the Rocks, so it really depends. What kind of way is you looking for, obviously the longer the reef. The the bit, the the better it is. Ideally in any situation. The best is to have a reef or point where the where the energy is converges on and then a deep spot next to it. So deep spark has the channel where the waves don't break so you can ride the waves on the reef and then pull out in the channel, paddle back out of your hair dry and go get another way. So it's always great when there is a safe sewing or Channel.

It depends on the type of wave you are looking for. If you want intense barreling waves, look for an ocean floor with a steep gradient from deep to shallow. If you are looking for long point breaks, look for a headland at an angle where the waves wrap around it and create an even gradient from shallow to deep. The best is to have a reef or point where the energy converges and then a deep spot next to it.

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The type of ocean floor that creates the best waves depends on the specific wave you're looking for. If you want intense barreling waves, an ocean floor that transitions quickly from deep to shallow is ideal. This steep gradient creates fast-rearing waves that barrel and provide an intense surfing experience. However, not everyone enjoys these types of waves.

On the other hand, many people prefer long point breaks. These waves occur when the coastline or headland is at the perfect angle, causing waves to wrap around and sweep into a point. The gradient from shallow to deep is more even, allowing the waves to break and peel along the rocks, creating long lines for surfing. This is why it's called a point break.

Ultimately, the type of wave you prefer will determine the ideal ocean floor. Longer reefs are generally desirable. Ideally, a reef or point where the energy of the waves converges, along with a nearby deep spot or channel where waves don't break, creates an optimal surfing setup. This allows surfers to ride the waves on the reef and then safely paddle back out through the channel to catch another wave.

What's the number 1 tip for making a steep wave?

Master the Steep Wave: The Number 1 Tip

Okay the number one tip for making a steep wave. This video features probably the steepest drop I've ever made. The most important thing to do is everything needs to be forward motion. All the forces when a wave gets deep, all the forces are pulling you back up the wave face. The water is sucking up the face of the wave up, the wind is blowing up the wave face. Everything is trying to keep you at the top. So the sole goal when it's really steep is to get, I would say, past the midway of the wave is the goal. To get down past the midway and we need to, the way to do this is by forward motion. So we want a deep, strong paddle. That's really important. And the last two strokes we make need to be our strongest strokes. Most people actually stop paddling too early. As the wave kind of stands up they'll try to pop up at the top, but I try to take an extra two strokes. So as the wave rears up with me at the top, I try to pull my way down the face with two more strokes. And these are going to be my strongest strokes. So pulling my last two are my strongest to pull me down the wave face aggressively. And then once we're doing our pop up, everything needs to be forward. Most people have a tendency when the wave gets steeper to hesitate, lean back, and the nose goes up. That again keeps us at the top. So as you're popping up, make sure everything is leaning forward, the motion is forward, and you kind of want to be pretty straight, but with the rail engaged. And when we engage the rail, it provides extra grip to keep us gripped to the wave face, but also we won't nose dive if the rail is engaged. So keep the board pretty straight down the wave with the rail engaged, and that's how you make a steep drop.

The most important tip for making a steep wave is to have forward motion. Make sure to use powerful strokes and stay leaned forward with the rail engaged. This will help keep you gripped to the wave face and prevent diving.

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The number one tip for making a steep wave is to maintain forward motion. When a wave is steep, various forces are pulling you back up the wave face, such as the sucking water and the blowing wind. To overcome this, the goal is to get past the midway point of the wave. This requires a deep, strong paddle, with the last two strokes being the strongest. Many people tend to stop paddling too early as the wave stands up, but taking two extra strong strokes can help pull you down the face of the wave aggressively. During the pop-up, it's crucial to lean forward and maintain forward motion. Avoid hesitating or leaning back, as this keeps you at the top of the wave. Your body should be pretty straight, with the rail of your board engaged to provide extra grip and prevent nose-diving. By keeping the board straight down with an engaged rail, you can successfully navigate a steep drop on a wave.

Indonesia's Nias: The Perfect Wave that Delivers

My favorite wave is nias in Indonesia. The reason I love it so much. Is I love the community, they're the people, but it's also just the most perfect wave. I go there. Every year, every time I see a big swollen, the charts heading to Indonesia. I look straight at in the ass and if it looks good, I booked a ticket and I follow it. It just delivers up. It breaks in exactly the same place every time. And once, you know, your lineups, you can pinpoint exactly where to sit and every time take off from the same. Place super steep drop but once you make it you pull up, you just stand tall on us. Massive barrel for like 5 seconds and then spits you out into the channel into the safe Zone and then you can pedal back with your hair dry straight to the next one, you surrounded by palm trees. It's a northern Sumatra, it's so beautiful and warm and it's a very special place to me. This was in 2018 during the biggest wall that ever hit. Indonesia and was one of the rides of my life.

I love Nias in Indonesia because of the perfect wave, the community and the beautiful scenery. Every time I see a swell heading to Indonesia, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave offers a steep drop with a massive barrel followed by a safe zone. It's one of my favorite places and 2018 was especially memorable during the biggest swell that ever hit Indonesia.

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My favorite wave is Nias in Indonesia. I love it because of the incredible community and the perfect wave it offers. Every year, when I see a big swell heading to Indonesia, I immediately look at Nias. If it looks good, I book a ticket and follow it. The wave breaks in the same spot every time, allowing me to find my lineup and know exactly where to sit. The takeoff is steep, but once you make it, you can stand tall and enjoy a massive barrel for about 5 seconds. It then spits you out into the channel, where you can pedal back with dry hair to catch the next wave. Surrounded by palm trees, Nias in northern Sumatra is a beautiful and warm place. It holds a special significance for me. In 2018, during the biggest swell to hit Indonesia, I had one of the best rides of my life there.

How far into the water has a wave brought you?

Surviving the Depths: A Surfer's Brush with Drowning

So how far into the water has a way of taking me? Well I've had some some pretty bad why pots a lot of the big ways that I'm surfing on a break about a kilometer out to see, they probably in about start breaking in about 10 to 15 meters of water, so it's pretty deep. And yeah, I've definitely had times where the wave has crashed on me. Pulled me down under the water and you can feel the pressure on your Your ears balding. I've been pushed so deep that it feels like my ears are going to pop. You can sense the darkness around you is pitch-black. It's cold. It's a place where you just feel so alone. And the scary thing is, when you're deep under the water, you can just feel it, what feels like the weight of the entire ocean above you? That's weighing you down and the ocean is so much stronger than we are so you can only come up to the surface when the wave releases you. So yeah, I've had some pretty bad, why Parts? But I trained for it and I've never really had any situation. We all feel like I was going to drown, but it's like a crazy place. When you deep under the water, just have to relax can't fight the ocean. That's stronger than we are. And when the wave releases, you can consume up to the surface.

I've gone deep into the water while surfing, about 10-15 meters. It's dark, cold, and can be overwhelming with the pressure of the entire ocean above you. But I've trained for it and never been in a situation where I felt like I was going to drown - you just have to relax and let the wave take you back up to the surface.

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How far has a wave taken me into the water? Well, when I'm surfing on a break about a kilometer offshore, the big waves start breaking in about 10 to 15 meters of water, so it's quite deep. There have been times when a wave has crashed on me, pulling me down and creating intense pressure on my ears. I've been pushed so deep that it feels like my ears are going to pop. It's a dark and cold place, where you feel completely alone. The weight of the entire ocean above you feels like it's pressing down, reminding you of the ocean's immense power. You can only resurface when the wave releases you. While I've experienced some intense moments, I've trained for these situations and have never felt like I was going to drown. It's a surreal experience being deep underwater, and you have to remain calm and not fight against the strength of the ocean. When the wave finally releases, you can rise back up to the surface.

Why are dumping waves considered unpredictable?

The Unpredictability of Dumping Waves: A Lesson in Energy and Danger

Why are dumping waves considered unpredictable? Well dumping waves, they occur in a place that with ocean floor goes from Deep to shallow very quickly. So the quicker and steeper the gradient is from Deep to shallow the quicker, the wave will rear up and the more energy the wave will dump with. Because if for instance the opposite of that is a place that's very shallow, very far Far out to sea. So I learned to surf at the speech called muizenberg. It's shallow super far out to sea and the waves break a kilometer out, but there are small and they very soft. And they move very slowly that the energy is lost as it from way out to sea, because the energy, the, as a wave, travels, its oscillating energy, and the bottom of that drags and loses energy, as it feels the bottom. So if you have, if it's very shallow far to see It'll lose, Is energy very quickly whereas if you have a, The Dumping waves, it goes from deep water to shallow, the wave comes in out of deep water. It maintains all of its energy and suddenly the the oscillating system feels the bottom and it rears up very quickly with all that energy and unloads on to the sand bank or the reef and because it's moving so quickly and Rears up so fast, it makes it a lot more unpredictable and dangerous.

Dumping waves are unpredictable because they occur in places with an ocean floor that quickly goes from deep to shallow which allows the wave to maintain its energy and quickly rear up, making it more dangerous.

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Dumping waves are considered unpredictable because they occur in areas where the ocean floor transitions rapidly from deep to shallow. The steeper and quicker this gradient is, the faster the wave will rise and the more energy it will release. In contrast, waves in areas that are shallow and far out to sea tend to be smaller, softer, and slower-moving. The energy of these waves dissipates as they travel over the shallow bottom, resulting in a loss of power. 

However, in the case of dumping waves, the wave maintains its energy as it approaches the shallow area. When it encounters the bottom, it rapidly rears up and releases all of its energy onto the sandbank or reef. This quick and powerful motion makes dumping waves more unpredictable and dangerous. The speed and intensity of the wave's rise make it challenging to anticipate its behavior, posing risks for surfers and other individuals in the water.

Unveiling NEOS: Surfers Paradise in Indonesia

My favorite surf spot is a way of called NEOS in Indonesia. I mean wearing that up with jaws, but Jaws is terrifying and its jaws in Hawaii's where I've had my best moments that's like the best big wave in the world but I think the way of I'm enjoy, the most is NEOS in Northern Sumatra Indonesia. And it's a beautiful big, right? And Barrel, it breaks in a bay, that's surrounded by palm trees the water's. So warm the locals are are all super friendly and where every time I'm out there on a big swell, I just feel so comfortable. So it home, I know the lineup. So I know exactly like there's a palm tree and a telephone pole that I know exactly to line up with the pinpoint my exact position and I just feel like, I know that's what really well. And I've had some of the best writers in my life up there.

My favorite surf spot is NEOS in Northern Sumatra, Indonesia. It has a beautiful big right and barrel, surrounded by palm trees and the warm water makes it comfortable. I know the lineup well and have had some of the best rides of my life there.

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My favorite surf spot is a wave called NEOS in Northern Sumatra, Indonesia. While places like Jaws in Hawaii offer incredible big waves, they can also be quite terrifying. NEOS, on the other hand, is where I've had some of my best moments. It's a beautiful, big, right-hand barrel that breaks in a bay surrounded by palm trees. The water is warm, and the locals are incredibly friendly. Every time I surf there during a big swell, I feel at home and comfortable. I know the lineup well, and I can easily pinpoint my position based on a palm tree and a telephone pole. It's a spot where I've experienced some of the best rides of my life.

Matt Bromley answers your Surfing questions. See all the advice Matt Bromley has and get answers to your own Surfing questions.

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Matt started surfing when he was 6 years old, in Cape Town, South Africa. He grew to become one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. He watches the globe for large storms, and when all the elements come together, books a ticket and chases the energy across the world. He documents the big waves these storms create and produces high-quality content that is distributed through various global media platforms. Matt's other passion is sharing his experiences to inspire and empower people to ride their "big waves".