Photography

How do I make sure my photos look as good printed as they do digitally?

Transform your digital photos to stunning prints with this important step

How do I make sure my photos look is good printed as they do digitally? That's a very good topic and one of the most asked questions, the only way to really make sure that your photos look as good printed as they do, digitally is to make sure that you're in a color managed workflow. So as the photographer, that means you have to color calibrate your monitor and you have to Hardware. Calibrate, your monitor, if your monitor is not calibrated, you have no excuse for your prince, not matching what it looks like on your screen. So, First and foremost by a device and Hardware calibrate, your monitor. And then if you're doing your own printing, you have to make sure you have the proper print profiles for that printer, paper combination. If you're working with a third party printer, you have to make sure that they have good profiles as well and that they're working in a color managed system. And that's all you really need to do to make sure that your prints match your photos.

To make sure your photos look as good printed as they do digitally, it is important to color calibrate and hardware calibrate your monitor. You must also have the proper print profiles for that printer and paper combination if you're doing your own printing, and ensure that any third party printers you work with are in a color managed system.

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To ensure that your photos look as good printed as they do digitally, it's essential to establish a color-managed workflow. As a photographer, you need to calibrate your monitor using a hardware calibration device. This ensures that your monitor accurately displays colors, leaving no room for discrepancies when printing.

If you handle your own printing, it's crucial to have the proper print profiles for your specific printer and paper combination. These profiles ensure that the colors translate accurately from digital to print. If you work with a third-party printer, ensure that they also have good profiles and operate within a color-managed system.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your prints match the quality and appearance of your digital photos.

What’s your favorite lens for nighttime and astro photography?

Top lens for stunning nighttime & astro photography: Tamron 15-30 G to 2.8

What is your favorite lens for nighttime? And astrophotography, my favorite lens for nighttime and astrophotography is my Tamron 15 to 30 G to 2.8 lens. I like that lens because mostly when I do astrophotography, I'm doing landscape astrophotography. So I have a landscape in my foreground and when I shoot, I'm typically doing two, exposures one for the foreground and one for the stars and the Stars on Either doing tracking or stacking technique to get the most out of the star image. And then for the foreground, I do a lot of lighting in my foreground images. So the zoom lens gives me a lot of Versatility for composing, my Landscapes and forgetting. The best-looking scenes that I can end the most sky. So I like the ultra wide to get a nice wide angle view of the image, and the scenery. And then sometimes I'll zoom in just a little bit like maybe 220 or 20 22 mm in that range and photograph the sky image just to make the Stars a little bit bigger in the sky. So that's the kind of type of lens that I would recommend that you use and very fast ultra-wide lens. I find is the best bet for doing night, and astrophotography.

My favorite lens for nighttime and astrophotography is my Tamron 15 to 30mm f/2.8 lens. I like it because it gives me a lot of versatility for composing my landscapes and getting the best-looking scenes with the most sky. It also allows me to zoom in slightly to make the stars bigger in the sky image.

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My favorite lens for nighttime and astrophotography is the Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 lens. I prefer this lens because I often do landscape astrophotography, which involves capturing both the foreground and the stars. I typically take two exposures, one for the foreground and one for the stars. For the stars, I may use tracking or stacking techniques to enhance the star image. In the foreground, I often incorporate lighting techniques.

The zoom capability of this lens provides me with versatility in composing my landscapes and capturing the most captivating scenes with a wide-angle view. Sometimes, I zoom in slightly to around 20-22mm to make the stars appear larger in the sky. Overall, I recommend using a fast ultra-wide lens for nighttime and astrophotography to achieve the best results.

What is the main objective of the editing process?

Mastering the Art of Editing: Finding the Perfect Image & Enhancing its Impact

There are two parts to the editing process. So when you're looking for the main objective to the editing process, you have to look at both parts. The first part of the editing process is to figure out which picture out of all the pictures you took is the one that best conveys your story. So you're trying to find the best picture from that, shoot that captures, the story that you're trying to tell and that is technically the highest quality of all the ones that you photographed. So you're looking for the best image to do and Then if you're going into the digital, darkroom part of the editing process, you want to make something the star of your show in your picture, and you do that by controlling the light, the color, the brightness, the contrast, sharpness of your image. So I like to manipulate the viewers eye to go directly to the part of the image that I feel is the strongest so that there are seeing that first and that they're getting the most out of the story that I'm trying to tell. So first picking out the image that compositionally and technically does the best to tell your story and then working in the digital, darkroom to accentuate, the parts of that image that you feel are the most important and that you want the viewers. I to go to. Those are the main objectives of my editing process.

The main objectives of the editing process are to find the best picture from a selection that captures your story and then to manipulate the light, color, brightness, contrast, and sharpness of the image to draw the viewers' eyes to the most important parts of the story.

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The main objective of the editing process involves two parts. Firstly, it is about selecting the picture that best conveys your story and is of the highest technical quality among all the photos taken. This involves finding the image that captures the essence of the story you want to tell. 

Secondly, in the digital darkroom, the objective is to enhance the chosen image by controlling elements such as light, color, brightness, contrast, and sharpness. The goal is to manipulate the viewer's focus and guide their attention to the most impactful parts of the image. By accentuating these elements, you ensure that the viewers fully experience and understand the story you are trying to convey.

In summary, the main objectives of the editing process are to select the best image compositionally and technically to tell your story, and then to enhance and emphasize the most important aspects of that image in the digital darkroom.

What tips would you give for someone photographing the Milky Way?

Capture the Milky Way: Tips for Stunning Nighttime Photography

My tips for someone photographing, the Milky Way. First and foremost, number one tip, I would say, would be to dress warm. You're ending up usually photographing, you know, in the middle of the night. I like to go somewhere, usually, where it's fairly high in elevation to do my Milky Way Photography because the air is clear. So, usually it's, you know, you start out in the daytime and it could be 70, 80 degrees outside. During the daytime, when you're out there at night, it could end up below freezing. So, Just make sure you're dressed warm that helps a lot. The other tips for photographing the Milky Way I would say is to figure out whether you're going to be stacking or tracking and have the appropriate equipment for either one of those and the hardest thing about photographing the Milky Way is focusing. So I like to focus before it gets dark and set my camera and lens at infinity and focus before dark and then tape My Lens down and make sure that the focus doesn't change when I'm photographing the Milky Way. Way, another thing you can do is to have a baton off filter to check your focus but I find usually that pre-focus technique works the best and then study up because there's really two ways to do Milky Way. Exposures one long exposure where you're tracking or lots of quick exposures where you're stacking so check it out and take good Milky Way pictures.

Dress warm when photographing the Milky Way and make sure you have the appropriate equipment for either stacking or tracking your shots. Focus before it gets dark, set your camera and lens to infinity and tape down your lens so the focus doesn't change. To check focus you can use a baton off filter. Study up on different techniques to get the best shots.

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When photographing the Milky Way, here are some tips to keep in mind. First and foremost, dress warmly as you'll likely be shooting in the middle of the night. It's often beneficial to choose a location at a higher elevation for clearer air. Temperatures can drop significantly, so be prepared for potential freezing conditions.

Next, decide whether you'll be stacking or tracking your shots and ensure you have the appropriate equipment for your chosen method. One of the biggest challenges in Milky Way photography is achieving proper focus. I recommend focusing before it gets dark, setting your camera and lens to infinity, and securing the focus by taping the lens down. This helps prevent any changes in focus while capturing the Milky Way. Alternatively, you can use a bahtinov filter to check your focus.

Lastly, familiarize yourself with the two main approaches to Milky Way photography: long exposures with tracking or multiple quick exposures for stacking. Study up on these techniques to capture stunning Milky Way images.

By following these tips, you'll be well-prepared to photograph the Milky Way and capture its beauty.

Master night photography with the 400 rule!

The question has to deal with the 400 Rule and I'm assuming, this is the 400 rule for doing nighttime or Star Photography. Basically, the 400 rule states that you divide the focal length of your lens into 400 and that's how long you can expose your image without getting any movement to the Stars. So if you are photographing with the 50 millimeter lens and you divide that into 400, you'd be able to photograph 48 seconds, without getting any movement to the Stars if you're photographing. With a 24, mm lens. You'd be able to photograph for about 16 to 17 seconds without showing any Star movement and with a 14 millimeter lens that would be about 28 seconds. So this is a very good starting point if you're trying to photograph and get pinpoint Stars. If you have a very high resolution camera and maybe even a little bit shorter than those numbers but those are always a very good place to start. So if you knew you could only shoot for eight seconds before getting any A movement in your images or any movement in your stars, you would set whatever aperture. You're going to use your shutter speed to 8 seconds and you adjust your ISO accordingly to make the correct exposure. And that will give you a picture of the Stars, where the stars are sharp and show, no movement and that's the 400 rule

The 400 Rule in star photography states that you divide the focal length of your lens into 400 and that's how long you can expose your image without getting any movement to the stars. To use this rule, set your shutter speed to the calculated number of seconds and adjust the ISO accordingly to make the correct exposure. This will give you a picture of the stars with sharp, unmoving stars.

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The 400 rule refers to a guideline for nighttime or star photography. It states that you divide the focal length of your lens into 400 to determine the maximum exposure time without capturing star movement. For example, if you have a 50mm lens, dividing it into 400 gives you 8 seconds of exposure time without star movement. With a 24mm lens, you can expose for about 16 to 17 seconds, and with a 14mm lens, it would be around 28 seconds.

This rule serves as a starting point for capturing pinpoint stars. If you have a high-resolution camera, you may need slightly shorter exposure times. To apply the rule, set your shutter speed to the determined time (e.g., 8 seconds), adjust your aperture accordingly, and fine-tune your ISO to achieve the correct exposure. Following the 400 rule helps ensure sharp, non-blurry star images.

What’s your favorite gear for staying warm when photographing in cold weather?

Stay Warm in Cold Weather: Essential Gear for Photographers

What is your favorite gear for staying warm? When photographing and cold weather? Well, I have several pieces of gear that I think are essential for staying warm in cold weather. First of all, you have to think about your hands and your feet. So for my hands, I use the heat company glove system, which is composed of a pair of liner gloves that you can put hand warmers in. And then a pair of over miss that, go over that, that you can also put hand warmers in. And I've used these gloves down to Minus 20 degrees and kept my hands warm and just think they're kind of Lifesavers. The other thing is keeping your feet warm. And I use either Sorel, Arctic pack boots or I have a pair of insulated Muck Boots if I'm going somewhere where it's wet and I need to be standing in water as well. So those work really good. You can stand in freezing water and you know, 20-degree weather and your feet are toasty warm and I also put the Hebrew Verse in those as well in my boots and then I use Columbia Sportswear outer gear and I have both like the rate while it's more like snowboarding pants from them and then a dual layer jacket. So it has that on the heat shield in on that reflective material and that keeps me really, really warm. So those are the pieces of gear that I would really recommend but you want to really want to make sure you keep your hands and your feet warm. Otherwise you're going to be miserable out there and cold. Weather.

My favorite gear for staying warm when photographing in cold weather is the Heat Company glove system, Sorel Arctic Pack boots, Muck Boots and Columbia Sportswear outer gear. These keep my hands and feet warm, as well as provide a dual layer jacket that has a heat shield and reflective material to keep me toasty.

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When photographing in cold weather, I have a few favorite gear items that are essential for staying warm. Firstly, for my hands, I rely on the heat company glove system. It consists of liner gloves that can hold hand warmers and over mitts that can also accommodate hand warmers. These gloves have kept my hands warm even in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees.

To keep my feet warm, I use either Sorel Arctic pack boots or insulated Muck Boots, depending on the conditions. These boots are great for standing in freezing water or wet environments while keeping my feet toasty warm. I also add insole warmers to my boots for extra warmth.

For outerwear, I trust Columbia Sportswear. I have snowboarding pants from them and a dual-layer jacket with a heat shield and reflective material. This combination provides excellent insulation and keeps me really warm in cold weather.

Overall, I highly recommend focusing on keeping your hands and feet warm when photographing in cold weather. It's essential for staying comfortable and avoiding misery in those freezing conditions.

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Lewis Kemper has been photographing North America's parklands for 40+ years, visiting 47 states and 10+ countries. He received a BA in Fine Art Photography from GWU in 1976 and worked at the Ansel Adams Gallery from 1978-1980. His work is in many private and public collections, and he has taught photography for many organizations. He has written/photographed for many books and magazines, and his multimedia presentation "My Stretch of the River" features a year of photography and journal entries on the American River.