From dogs to cats, our animal-loving pet experts answer all of your burning questions. Whether you want to learn about methods to train your new puppy, or to explore healthier dog food recommendations, our top veterinarians and pet trainers are here to help. Browse informed answers from a curated list of board certified experts and specialists on AnyQuestion.

Neither AnyQuestion nor its Experts provide medical advice, diagnosis or treatment or otherwise provide professional healthcare services.

Physician disclaimer

Pets

Swimming

Strength

Triathlon

Photography

Track & Field

Nutrition

Physical Therapy

Running

Cycling

Podcasting

HealthCare

Musculoskeletal

Hockey

First Responders

Integrative Medicine

Chiropractic

Cross Country Skiing

Adaptive Sports

Climbing

Mental Health

Surfing

Tennis

Military

Mind Body

Scholars

Criminal Justice

Liquor

CrossFit

Golf

Soccer

Pickleball

Hunting

Public Speaking

Venture Capital

Anthony De Marinis is a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC), an Accredited Dog Trainer (ADT), and a Licensed Family Dog Mediator (LFDM). He believes in taking a compassionate and fair approach when training and modifying behavior, helping owners understand their individual dogs, identifying root causes of behavior concerns, and creating plans to improve their situation. Anthony also enjoys helping dog owners learn to be their dog's teacher and guide. His education includes attending the Victoria Stilwell Academy for Dog Training & Behavior and studying with renowned aggression expert Micheal Shikashio, CDBC, applied ethologist and behavior expert Kim Brophey, CDBC, and behavior modification expert Viviane Arzoumanian, CDBC, CPDT. He is also fascinated by dog sports and observing working dogs. He is committed to continuing his education in training and behavior modification.

Michael Shikashio is an internationally sought-after keynote speaker and presenter on the topic of dog aggression at numerous events, conferences, and universities worldwide. He has mentored and presented to thousands of animal professionals in twelve different countries and has been a guest at every major dog training conference in the U.S. and Mexico including the APDT, IAABC, FDSA, Clicker Expo, Victoria Stilwell’s DBC, PPG, CICA, IACP, Owners of Dog Daycares, and The Aggression in Dogs Conferences.

Dr. Elizabeth Thompson decided she wanted to be a veterinarian in 2nd grade after watching an episode of “Emergency Vets” on Animal Planet. She says, “I knew then that vet med would be the best way to impact the lives of both humans and animals alike due to the critical impact animals have on human quality of life.” Years later, Dr. Thompson graduated Suma Cum Laude as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine from Kansas State University. Originally from the San Francisco Bay area, Dr. Thompson moved to North Carolina in 2014 for her surgical residency at North Carolina State University. She is trained in all areas of surgery, including small animal soft tissue, orthopedic and neurologic. She has additional training in wound management techniques and minimal invasive surgical techniques.

Professional, certified trainer and dog sport competitor for 12+ years. I help clients across the US with agility skills and behavior challenges. 

Dr. Joshua Broadwater has been hooked on treating and curing diseases and helping relieve the suffering of animals – since he got his first microscope at age 12. That passion eventually took on a particular focus – caring for animals’ eyes. Following a residency at the Animal Eye Specialty Clinic in Florida, Dr. Broadwater worked at Lion Country Safari, SeaWorld, and Gumbo Limbo Environmental Complex, where he performed surgery to remove tumors from turtles’ eyes. Broadwater is now an ophthalmologist at CARE, where he has a special interest in cornea disease and surgery, cataract surgery, and glaucoma surgery. “I went into ophthalmology,” he says, “because there’s something so special about relieving the suffering of a dog with a corneal ulcer, or controlling a painful condition such as glaucoma, or removing cataracts from a dog that was blind, and suddenly have them see the world again.”

Jess Kelley-Madera is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA). She is dedicated to providing the highest quality of care for each dog she works with, and is well on her way to earning the Pat Miller Certified Trainer (PMCT1) credential. She is committed to providing the highest quality of care for each pup she encounters, using LIMA force-free methods. Jess is committed to providing the highest quality of care for each pup she encounters. She is passionate about ensuring that every dog she works with is able to live a healthy and happy life.

Dr. Ashley Bourgeois is a board-certified veterinary dermatologist passionate about providing practical knowledge to general practitioners to help itchy pets. She graduated from the University of Missouri’s College of Veterinary Medicine in 2010 and completed a one-year small animal internship at Purdue University. She became a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology in 2014 and moved to Portland, Oregon in 2016. Her interests include autoimmune skin diseases, allergies, cytology, and otology. In her leisure, she enjoys outdoor activities, traveling, and watching sports. She and her husband have a daughter, son, and rescue Lab/Boxer/Pit mix. She runs The Derm Vet podcast, lectures, and has a social media presence to educate veterinarians in dermatology and work/life integration.

Veterinarian with masters degree and advanced training in animal behavior. Special interest in diagnostic imaging (ultrasound/radiography). 

Do you believe there's a place for Prong collars and E collars in normal or severe dog behavioral issues? Well, let's talk about the cases that I work with, which is aggression cases, and use that as an example. My goal in those cases is often to create a positive association with whatever the dog is having issues with, whatever stimulus, the other dog or the person that's entering the home. The goal is to help the dog overcome its fear or anxiety or stress or frustration. Many of those factors often are what's fueling the dog's aggressive behavior. So my goal is to help them feel better about that thing coming into their home or approaching or whatever it is the stimulus that they're having issues with. So the issue with any kind of aversive, whether it's a Prong collar or an E collar or a squirt bottle or a shaker can or a rolled up newspaper or really anything the dog doesn't like or may not like. The issue with those is that it can actually create a negative association with that event. So let's say Uncle Bob is coming over and we're trying to help the dog feel better about Uncle Bob. And every single time Uncle Bob comes over, somebody is squirting the dog or maybe correcting the dog with an E collar or a Prong collar. It might suppress that behavior of the barking and lunging towards Uncle Bob, but it's not going to help the dog feel any better about Uncle Bob coming over. On the other side of the coin, let's say Uncle Bob was entering the home and was constantly tossing hot dogs and really yummy treats towards the dog, even if they're barking. If the dog is fearful of Uncle Bob, what's going to happen over time is the dog's is going to be, like, huh, this guy is not so bad after all. He's constantly bringing food. He's been pretty safe. He's pretty predictable. So maybe he can come over more often. That's often going to work in many cases. And so my goal there is often to just, let's help the dog feel much better about the person or the thing that they're having issues with instead of adding an aversive, which might actually create more issues for you.

Prong collars and E collars can suppress the dog's behavior towards an event, but they do not work to create a positive association with the event. It is better to provide rewards when the event occurs in order to help the dog feel better about it.

Do you believe there is a place for prong collars and e-collars in normal or severe dog behavioural issues?

Transforming Dog Behavioral Issues: Positive Associations Trump Aversives

Regarding the use of prong collars and e-collars in normal or severe dog behavioral issues, let's focus on aggression cases as an example. In these cases, my goal is to create a positive association with the stimulus that triggers the dog's aggression, such as another dog or a person entering the home. The aim is to help the dog overcome fear, anxiety, stress, or frustration that may fuel their aggressive behavior.

The problem with aversive tools like prong collars or e-collars is that they can create a negative association with the event or stimulus. For instance, if we're trying to help the dog feel better about Uncle Bob coming over, using aversive methods like squirting the dog or correcting them with these tools may suppress the barking and lunging behavior, but it won't help the dog feel any better about Uncle Bob's presence.

On the other hand, if Uncle Bob consistently tosses hot dogs or yummy treats to the dog, even when they're barking, over time, the dog may start to associate Uncle Bob with positive experiences. This can help the dog feel safer and more comfortable around Uncle Bob.

In my approach, the focus is on helping the dog feel better about the person or thing they have issues with, rather than adding aversive tools that may create more problems.

Why does my dog only bark at people when she's on the leash? It's a really specific problem that's actually really, really common for dogs when they're being walked by people. And one of the biggest reasons is that dogs have figured out once that leash goes on, they're no longer able to move around quite as freely as they would be able to do if the leash wasn't there. That typically means that that particular dog is having some big feelings about whatever is happening around them. In this case, if we're talking about a dog that's barking toward people, that dog may be experiencing a bit of frustration because they would rather be able to rush up and greet the person. Or in other cases, they may be feeling a bit of fear or stress because there's something about that experience that's just not allowing them to feel more comfortable. And in that case, they might actually be too close. And so they're using barking as a way of trying to control the circumstance that they're in or control the distance from that perceived threat or the thing that's kind of freaking them out just a bit. And so that's absolutely something that we can address. But I tend to think about barking in either of those situations as a bit more of a symptom rather than the big problem. And so if we just focus on the barking or just focus on the leash, we might be missing the solution just a bit.

Dogs may bark at people when they are on the leash because they are feeling frustrated, fearful, or stressed. The barking is a symptom of these feelings, so it is important to look for the root cause of why the dog is feeling this way in order to find a solution.

Why does my dog only bark at people when she’s on the leash?

Leash frustration: Why does my dog only bark at people?

My dog only barks at people when she's on the leash. This is a common issue that many dogs experience while being walked. One of the main reasons for this behavior is that dogs realize that once the leash is on, their freedom to move around is restricted. This can lead to strong emotions and reactions towards their surroundings.

In the case of barking at people, the dog may feel frustrated because they want to approach and greet the person but are unable to do so. Alternatively, they may feel fearful or stressed due to something about the situation making them uncomfortable. Barking becomes a way for them to try and control the circumstances or maintain distance from what they perceive as a threat.

It's important to understand that barking is often a symptom of an underlying issue rather than the main problem itself. Focusing solely on the barking or the leash may not address the root cause effectively. It's crucial to identify and address the underlying emotions or triggers that are leading to the barking behavior.

Can reactiveness and aggression in dogs be completely cured with intensive training? Or will there always be some risk of that behavior returning? Well, we have to remember that aggressive behavior is actually quite normal for any animal. It's a survival mechanism in which we perceive a threat, and we respond accordingly. So it's never quite cured. Our goal is to reduce the likelihood of it happening again. So I'll give you a quick story. When I was 16, I just started driving, and I got in a really bad car accident. And ever since then, for the few weeks after, it took me a while to get back into my normal driving pattern. I was kind of overcorrecting, oversteering, and slamming on the brakes hard whenever I saw some-- what I perceived as a threat-- so overreacting to those particular stimuli in the environment. And the same thing can happen with aggression. So I had to learn, OK, things are actually not that bad. Things are safe out there. And I can learn these alternative behaviors or skills to go through those kind of environments or driving environments. So the same thing we can do with dogs. Say your dog is barking and lunging at other dogs on leash because of the one time they were attacked by an off-leash dog, for instance. What we need to do is help that dog feel safer and teach them alternative behaviors that they can choose from in those environments. So then you see a reduction in that reactive behavior or that barking and lunging on leash, because the dog is feeling safer and learning new skills in the environment. So that's how we can help to fix the aggressive behavior. And helping the dog, we're reducing the likelihood of it happening by creating safety and predictability in the environment.

Intensive training can help to reduce the likelihood of reactive or aggressive behavior in dogs, by teaching them new skills and creating a safe, predictable environment.

Can reactiveness and aggression in dogs be completely cured with intensive training? Or will there always be some risk that the behavior will return?

Reducing Risk: Intensive Training to Tackle Dog Aggression

Can reactiveness and aggression in dogs be completely cured with intensive training? Or will there always be some risk of that behavior returning? It's important to understand that aggressive behavior is a normal response for animals, including dogs, as it serves as a survival mechanism when they perceive a threat. Therefore, it's not something that can be completely cured. The goal is to reduce the likelihood of it happening again.

To illustrate this, let me share a personal story. When I was 16 and had just started driving, I got into a severe car accident. In the weeks following the accident, I found myself overreacting while driving, overcorrecting, and slamming on the brakes whenever I perceived a potential threat. It took time for me to regain my confidence and learn that things were actually safe on the road. I had to develop alternative behaviors and skills to navigate different driving environments. Similarly, dogs can experience overreactive or aggressive behavior due to past negative experiences.

If, for example, a dog barks and lunges at other dogs on a leash because of a previous attack by an off-leash dog, we can help the dog feel safer and teach them alternative behaviors in those situations. By creating a sense of safety and predictability in the environment, we can reduce the likelihood of reactive behavior. This involves helping the dog feel more secure and providing them with new skills to choose from in those challenging situations.

While intensive training can greatly improve a dog's behavior, it's important to recognize that there may always be some risk of the behavior resurfacing. The key is to focus on creating a safer environment and teaching alternative behaviors to minimize the occurrence of reactive or aggressive behavior.

All right. So the question is, do you ever get bitten as a dog behavior consultant? So the answer is yes, it can happen. It's not something that should be happening often, it should be something that is very rarely occurring. If you're constantly getting bitten as a professional, then I would probably question the way that maybe the professional is handling the situation, as they shouldn't be putting themselves or others in a position where they should be getting bitten very often. And also, if that's happening, then I also would be questioning how much pressure the trainer is putting on the dog themselves. They may be pushing them to a very extreme or intense level, where our goal should be to try and work with the dog at threshold or below threshold, where it's a lower intensity, so the dog can actually start processing the information that might be occurring in the situation, rather than pushing them to such an extreme level where they're just reacting or having an overreaction to something. So we want to always make sure we're working with the dog at threshold or below threshold, but it's possible sometimes it isn't. One of the things I work with a lot as a dog trainer behavior consultant is worry with stranger-directed aggression, so dogs having issues towards strangers entering the home or guests entering the home. And in some of those situations, because it's indoors-- in their space, in their home, on their territory with their people-- they may feel the need to have to protect the home or their owners or even themselves because they're indoors. And so in that situation, it will likely push the dog to a higher level or extreme level, and so we want to make sure we implement certain safety protocols and measures, so that way the dog isn't displaying those behaviors or isn't causing harm. So, for example, we might ask our clients to muzzle train their dog prior to my arrival. So prior to our session, a couple of weeks leading up to it, we're asking our clients and providing them with muzzle training information, possibly implementing two barriers of safety-- so a muzzle and maybe a baby gate or using a tether, or having the dog and the owner meet me outside off of the property where it might be a more neutral territory. So we want to make sure we're setting the dog up for success, so that way they're not actually causing harm.

Yes, it is possible to get bitten as a dog behavior consultant, but it should be very rare. Professionals should check their own techniques and ensure that they are not pushing the dog to an extreme level where they might become reactive or aggressive. To prevent this, clients can muzzle train their dog and use two barriers of safety such as a baby gate or tether.

Do you ever get bitten as a dog behavior consultant?

Dog behavior consultant reveals the truth about getting bitten

As a dog behavior consultant, it is possible to get bitten, but it should be a rare occurrence. If a professional is constantly getting bitten, it may indicate an issue with how they handle situations or the amount of pressure they put on the dog. The goal should be to work with the dog at or below their threshold, allowing them to process information without extreme reactions.

One common situation I work with is stranger-directed aggression, where dogs have issues with strangers entering their home. In these cases, being indoors in their territory can heighten their protective instincts. To ensure safety, I implement safety protocols such as muzzle training prior to sessions, using multiple barriers like muzzles and baby gates, or meeting the dog and owner in a neutral territory outside the property.

The focus is always on setting the dog up for success and preventing harm. By taking these precautions and working within the dog's comfort zone, the risk of getting bitten can be minimized.

Will my dog bite me if I put my hand in his food bowl while he's eating? Well, there's no guarantee your dog will bite you. But there's a significant increase in the risk of getting bitten if you do that. The reason why it's something called resource guarding in dogs. Where they're just simply protecting something they find of value. So the same thing us people can do when we're, let's say, out at our favorite restaurant. You're really hungry. You go sit down, the waitperson brings over your favorite meal. And then some stranger comes up and sticks their hand in your plate. Or maybe even somebody you know tries to steal one of your French fries. Your reaction might be anywhere from saying, hey, knock it off, to slapping their hand away, right? And the same thing can happen with dogs. They might growl. Or go to biting if they feel like they are threatened, or their resource is threatened. So what you can do instead to reduce the likelihood of getting bitten is actually tossing higher-value treats into your dog's food bowl while they're eating. Or simply as you're walking by while they're eating, you can toss the treats near the food bowl or near the dog. And what that does is creates a positive association with your approach. Similar to if you are sitting at your favorite restaurant. And a stranger or somebody you know starts walking by and dropping $100 bills next to your plate. If you do that enough times, pretty soon, you're looking forward to that person approaching. So the secret is creating positive associations, and avoid creating negative ones.

There is an increased risk of getting bitten if you put your hand in your dog's food bowl while they are eating. Instead, create positive associations by tossing treats into the bowl or near the dog when you pass by.

Will my dog bite me if I put my hand in bowl while he is eating?

Reduce the Risk: Dog's Reaction When Hand in Food Bowl

Putting your hand in your dog's food bowl while they are eating can increase the risk of getting bitten. Dogs may exhibit resource guarding behavior, where they protect something they find valuable, such as their food. Just like how humans may react if someone tries to take their food at a restaurant, dogs may growl or bite if they feel threatened or if their resource is threatened.

To reduce the likelihood of getting bitten, you can try a different approach. Instead of putting your hand in the bowl, consider tossing higher-value treats into your dog's food bowl while they are eating. Alternatively, you can toss treats near the food bowl or near the dog as you walk by. This creates a positive association with your presence and reduces the chances of negative reactions.

Think of it as if someone were to drop $100 bills near your plate at a restaurant every time they walked by. Eventually, you would look forward to their approach. The key is to create positive associations and avoid creating negative ones when interacting with your dog while they are eating.

Can I train my dog to stop excessively barking? In most cases, yes. Now, domestic dogs do bark a whole lot more than their wild counterparts. So we are a little bit fighting an uphill battle in some cases. And depending on the reason for your dog's barking, whether it's coming from stress or excitement or maybe even because we've accidentally reinforced that behavior, it may be a little bit more challenging to address it. First things first, it's not necessary to escalate to corrections or punishment or aversive devices that truly have flooded the market. We don't have to use a pinch collar. We don't have to use a shock collar. We don't have to use any sort of bark-activated collar or anything along those lines. But we do need to find out, to some degree, what your dog is trying to communicate. If they're excited, cool. Then maybe we can address that indirectly by giving them more enrichment or more things to do with their time rather than barking. If they're barking because they are worried or fearful, we can work with that too. And we can help that animal to feel a bit more comfortable or secure or even safe in those particular situations. If barking is a form of aggression or a threat for them, well, aggression typically comes when we've got an animal whose needs are not being met or they feel defensive or there's some other reason why that's happening. So rather than focusing just on the barking and saying, how do we stop that, I tend to focus more on, do we have a sense of why that's happening in the first place? And can we address it there at the root cause? Or/and what do we want that dog to do instead? In the situation where the dog is barking-- maybe it's because the doorbell just rang-- what do we want the dog to do instead? And have we given the dog, the learner, enough information so that they're likely to be successful in those situations? By addressing it in those ways, yes, we can absolutely address the aggressive barking. It may take a bit of an investment of time and effort to get there, but it's definitely doable.

Yes, it is possible to train a dog to stop excessively barking in most cases. It may take time and effort to get there, but it can be done by addressing the root cause of the barking and giving the dog enough information so they are successful in their new behaviors.

Can I train my dog to stop excessively barking?

Train your dog to stop barking excessively without punishment

Can I train my dog to stop excessively barking? In most cases, yes. However, domestic dogs naturally bark more than their wild counterparts, so it can be a bit challenging. The approach to addressing excessive barking depends on the underlying reason, such as stress, excitement, or inadvertently reinforced behavior.

It's important to note that there's no need to resort to corrections, punishment, or aversive devices like pinch or shock collars. Instead, we should try to understand what the dog is trying to communicate. If they're barking out of excitement, providing more enrichment and activities can help redirect their energy. If the barking stems from fear or anxiety, we can work on making them feel more comfortable and secure in those situations. If aggression is involved, it's crucial to identify the root cause and address any unmet needs or defensive behaviors.

Rather than solely focusing on stopping the barking, it's beneficial to consider what we want the dog to do instead. For example, when the doorbell rings, what behavior do we want them to exhibit? Providing clear guidance and ensuring the dog has the necessary information to succeed in those situations is key.

Addressing excessive barking may require time and effort, but with the right approach, it is definitely achievable.