Climbing

How do you stay motivated and focused during a long climb?

Preparing and Executing: Keys to Staying Motivated on a Long Climb

How do I stay motivated and focused during a long climb? Well, I don't get on a long climb unless I want to do it badly. Like, I know that I'll have trained for it, I'll have gotten as much information about it as possible. I'll be mentally prepared for the big day before I go. I'll make sure that I've, you know, taken the rest that I needed and the training that I've needed. So when I get on that big climb, all the motivation's kind of been for the time before it. And when I'm there, now it's just time to go ahead and execute and do my best and try to have as much fun as I can while getting on that big long climb. So the focus is there because I'm finally doing it. The motivation is there because, man, I don't want to fall short. Not that it affects me or my life in any way, but the motivation is all that preparation work, and then when you get to do it, it's just pure joy.

To stay motivated and focused on a long climb, make sure you have been mentally prepared and taken the necessary rest and training before going. When you are there, focus on executing and having fun with it, as all your motivation has been built up before that point.

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To stay motivated and focused during a long climb, I make sure that I have a strong desire to undertake the climb in the first place. I invest time in training, gathering information, and mentally preparing myself for the challenge ahead. By taking necessary rest and training, I ensure that I am fully prepared for the climb. When I start the climb, my motivation stems from all the hard work I put in before it. Now, it's time to execute and give my best while enjoying the experience. The focus naturally arises because I am finally pursuing my goal. The motivation comes from not wanting to fall short after all the preparation. Although the outcome doesn't have a significant impact on my life, the motivation is derived from the satisfaction of putting in the work and experiencing pure joy during the climb itself.

How do I know if my ropes need to be replaced?

Daily Assessment: How to Determine if Your Ropes Need Replacing

How do I know if my ropes need to be replaced? Well sadly there's not a time stamp on anything. You have to go ahead and assess your ropes daily every time you use them. So I like to rub the rope as I pull it through and stack it. I hold it between my fingers and if I get to a point where it's the same thickness the whole way through the rope is still in good shape and there's no damage onto the sheath which is the outside of the rope. But if as I'm stacking it and I feel I get an hourglass so I'm so I can pinch narrow and then it gets wider that's a place where there's damage to the rope and I need to go ahead and either cut that section off or potentially retire the whole rope due to the location of that. So if it's in the middle of the rope itself that's going to make it only half as good so you cut it in half and maybe you can use it in the gym each of those halves. But if it's on the end you can go ahead and cut the end off and still use the rope.

Inspect your ropes daily, feel for an hourglass shape that indicates damage, and if necessary cut off damaged sections or retire the rope entirely.

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To determine if your ropes need to be replaced, it's important to assess them regularly, ideally every time you use them. One method is to run your fingers along the rope as you pull and stack it. If the rope maintains a consistent thickness throughout and there's no damage to the outer sheath, then it is still in good shape. However, if you notice a narrowing or hourglass shape while stacking, where the rope becomes thinner and then widens again, there is likely damage that needs attention. Depending on the location of the damage, you may need to either cut off that section or retire the entire rope. If the damage is in the middle, cutting it in half can allow for continued use in a gym setting. On the other hand, if the damage is at the end of the rope, simply cutting off that portion may enable you to still use the remaining length of rope safely. Keep in mind that there isn't a specific timeframe for rope replacement; regular inspection and assessment are crucial for determining their condition.

Can you explain why a carabiner with nicks or sharp chunks should be retired?

Retire Damaged Carabiners: Protect Your Rope and Safety

When a carabiner has sharp edges on it and your rope is running over it, you are more likely to cut your rope, whether it's just running over the carabiner without much pressure or if someone is hanging on the other side and the rope is running right through it. So yeah, you don't want any sharp edges where a rope is nearby.

Sharp edges on a carabiner can cut a rope, so it is important to make sure there are no sharp edges when the rope is nearby.

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A carabiner with nicks or sharp chunks should be retired because it can pose a risk to your rope. When the rope runs over sharp edges on the carabiner, there is a higher chance of the rope getting cut. This can happen even with minimal pressure or if someone is hanging on the other side of the carabiner while the rope runs through it. Therefore, it is important to avoid any sharp edges in close proximity to where a rope is being used.

How do you balance the desire to push yourself and take on challenging climbs with the need to prioritize safety and risk management?

Finding the Balance: Pushing Limits versus Prioritizing Safety

How do I balance the desire to push myself and take on challenging climbs with the need to prioritize safety and risk management? 20 years ago Rob, I would balance it by not really worrying about the safety and risk and Now Rob, current Rob, the risk and safety is the number one priority So the balance changes over time I think. A lot of people who are extremely bold Typically are bold during one phase of their life Very rarely does someone stay bold their whole life So it's just a timing thing.

Balance the desire to push yourself and take on challenging climbs with the need to prioritize safety and risk management by being aware of the timing of your decisions. Make sure that you are not taking unnecessary risks that could have a negative impact on your health and wellbeing.

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Balancing the desire to push myself and take on challenging climbs with the need to prioritize safety and risk management has evolved over time for me. In the past, I didn't prioritize safety and risk as much as I do now. However, in my current mindset, safety and risk management are my top priorities. The balance between pushing myself and ensuring safety changes over time. It's common for individuals to be extremely bold during a specific phase of their life, but it's rare for someone to maintain that level of boldness throughout their entire life. So, it's a matter of timing and adapting to different stages.

Do you think making movies about women, queer, and BIPOC climbers would help inspire a more diverse pool of people to get into climbing?

Representation Matters: Movies Inspiring Diversity in Climbing

Do we think making movies about women, queer, and BIPOC climbers would help inspire a more diverse pool of people to get into climbing? Well, of course. The more exposure we get with different folks climbing, the more likely we are to inspire others to get into climbing. If you don't know that anybody else does it, and if you don't know anyone that's like you that does it, then you're less likely to go ahead and try. But when you see others that you are familiar with and associate with doing something, yeah, generally you're more likely to try it. So I'm all for encouraging everybody and anybody to try climbing. And if it fits their personality and who they are, then come on down. There's lots of rock to climb and lots of adventures to be had.

Yes, making movies about women, queer and bipod climbers could help inspire a more diverse pool of people to get into climbing by providing exposure to different types of climbers. Seeing others that are similar to you doing something can make it more likely for you to try it yourself.

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Making movies about women, queer, and BIPOC climbers would definitely help inspire a more diverse pool of people to get into climbing. Increased exposure to individuals from different backgrounds who participate in climbing can have a significant impact on inspiring others to give it a try. When people see others who are like them or share similar experiences engaging in an activity, they are more likely to be motivated to try it themselves. I fully support encouraging everyone, regardless of their background, to explore climbing. If it resonates with their personality and interests, there is plenty of rock to climb and countless adventures waiting to be had.

Why do so many climbers not wear helmets?

Taking risks: The surprising reasons climbers don't wear helmets

Why do so many climbers not wear helmets? Well, first and foremost, I've seen a lot more climbers wear them in the later years. I've been climbing for about 30 years, so many more people are wearing them, but originally helmets were just concerned, or concerns for ice climbers and folks in the mountains with loose rock. It's your typical sport crag or bouldering area. People didn't do that, wear helmets, because they didn't feel there was a need. Ultimately, most people don't wear helmets because they just don't think they're gonna get hurt and their friends haven't gotten hurt yet. So you can play that game and wait it out until you do, or until your buddy does, or you can just wear a helmet. They're comfortable, they're lightweight, they're small, there's no real... and they're comfortable. They fit everybody's... there's a helmet that fits everybody's head, so there's no reason not to wear a helmet. So, wear one.

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Why do many climbers choose not to wear helmets? While I've noticed an increase in climbers wearing helmets in recent years, originally, helmets were primarily associated with ice climbers and those in mountainous areas with loose rock. At typical sport crags or bouldering areas, people didn't feel the need to wear helmets. The main reason most climbers forego helmets is because they believe they won't get injured and their friends have been fortunate so far. However, one can either wait for an accident to happen or take proactive measures by wearing a helmet. Helmets are comfortable, lightweight, compact, and come in various sizes to fit every head. There's really no valid reason not to wear one. So, it's advisable to prioritize safety and wear a helmet while climbing.

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Rob was born in Ohio and didn't even learn about rock climbing until after graduating high school. Having his first climbing experiences at the New River Gorge, West Virginia gave him the climbing bug and he has been at for over 30 years. He continues to travel the world for climbing and adventuring, always seeking the ever elusive perfect route. His passion is establishing new climbs big and small. His favorite places to climb are in the Italian Dolomites and in Zion National Park. He has been teaching high school science and engineering for over 20 years. Rob now resides in Grand Junction, Colorado where he is a proud husband and a father of two boys.

Rob Pizem